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Good thinking, I did just do the rear axle bearings. After a long drive and experimenting, it looks like the vibe is the same whether coasting in neutral or full power... I know the driveshaft is still spinning either way but now I am thinking about possible tire imbalance.

Need to look elsewhere for vibes I suppose now... u-joints, tire balance, etc. It's not terrible but noticeable going 65+ mph.

Found the issue, stupid me I was measuring the transmission angle using the pan.. turns out the pan and valve body are not parallel to output shaft.. by 6 degrees. The actual angle, measured at the rear pad, was nose up by 1 degree. With the rake of the car, that is exactly what is normal. With...

Just measured, centerline of crank is correct 5-1/4" above top of k-member. So... the transmission mount is too tall? The beer math says decreasing the transmission angle from 5 to zero would require a 2.5" drop of the rear mount... this isn't even possible with the tail shaft sitting 1.5" above...

The transmission angle surprised me as well. Car had a very poorly done 318 to 360 swap, I have had to correct nearly everything from throttle brackets to kickdown operation to hardware used... maybe wrong motor mounts? I have never had any clearance issues with exhaust, and the fan appears...

Friends, I am working through driveability improvements with the car and need some opinions on correcting pinion angle. I have caltracs and a higher-than stock ride height on my '67 satellite, which of course has changed driveline angles. At rest with weight on the wheels, transmission is...

I wonder if white teflon tape on the threads would do the trick.

Thanks all for the help. Set the endplay properly (same way I did first time!) and after a long drive and lots of brake stops, checking brakes temperatures and adjusting, have the brakes balanced nicely. about 180 degrees on the front drums and 160ish on the rear drums after heavy braking. This...

Sure enough, when i backed it way off that wheel cooled down. Brake was working perfect, it was doing ALL the work. Hard to tell with a sure-grip and fat back tires, tracked straight under heavy braking.

I will report back tomorrow, thanks all for the help.

Great advice. I did that and the axle flange was completely steady, no wobble. Clearly the axle is not bent. With drum on, no warpage evident. I guess this is my next troubleshooting step. Back the shoes way off and drive it again. I mean, I guess it's possible that the hot brake is working...

OK so the plot thickens. I think the brakes are the source of the heat. After a test drive today, I immediately popped the wheel off to check everything out hot. There was endplay in the axle (too much, really, probably from all my caution earlier) and the heat source seemed to be the shoes...

Is there a way to measure or tell that the bearing retainer is fully seated on the axle? Im thinking that if the drivers side axle bearing wasn't fully seated, it would cause my issue... Going to pull the axle tomorrow just trying to figure out how to tell if it is not seated fully. I have lots...

Ugh… if so i really hope its the axle not the housing.

Just did, I felt end play on pass side axle but none on drivers.. which is strange they should both have end play if one does, right? Backed it off 4 more tabs and now I have end play on the drivers axle as well. Now im backed off 12 total castellations from when the adjuster was all the way...

Scratching my head, drivers side bearing is overheating after replacing on 8-3/4 axle. Here's the details. About 15k miles ago, swapped pumpkins for a used 3.23 sure grip unit. Bearings looked ok, so I repacked and reinstalled. Have driven much since and the drivers side bearing burned up a few...

Good points, here's the rebuttal:lol:: 1) hood scoop allows assy to clear. With rpm intake (non-air gap, bought used very reasonable price) and thin fiber spacer (for heat soak) and stock air cleaner, the stackup barely cleared stock hood. Mancini drop base air cleaner let me run a little...

I probably should have specified, need something that will have mounting stud for factory kickdown linkage. Classicindustries makes a repro 340 mount that looks promising, but I'm not sure if it will be tall enough. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/mn2542.html

Gentlemen, My 360 came to me with a really garbage welded together throttle cable bracket, and now that I have swapped in a performer rpm intake it is not tall enough for the correct geometry. I would like to add a 1" spacer as well, and that would really throw off the cable geometry. Does...

Rubber replacement mounts are ridiculously cheap. Like $3-6 each on Rockauto. For that price, even if they fell apart in a couple thousand miles it would be no big deal. Poly-locs, solids and all the other options cost $100 plus.