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Timing should be all in at ~3000 rpm. On a 383 - 451, I shoot for 38*-40* and let the idle timing fall in where it may. That carb is too small anyway, I'd go 625cfm or a 750 if the engine is healthy with any kind of cam in it. I'd dump the TM3 and use a DP4B (if you can find one at a reasonable...

If you're doing those upgrades, I'd consider a billet steel front drum too. Chuck (snook)

I've got a new green bearing kit I got from Dr. Diff for D60 & 8-3/4 if anyone needs it. Chuck (snook)

When you get the bill for extrude honing, you will learn to love headers... Chuck (snook)

That 572 has cross bolted mains, IMO you won't need a girdle on that block. I'm skeptical on B/RB girdles anyway. As for whether crank is forged or not, as mentioned above look at the harmonic balancer. If it's thin and not thick, it's probably forged and not externally balanced like a cast unit...

IMO. You'll never know what's in it unless you pull and refresh. You're going to add thousands of $$$ in power adders on an unknown base - not a winner but a grenade in waiting in my book. If you are shooting for 550+ HP reliably, then your plan is a non-starter, the block is a weak point at...

Yeah it would but badly. Been there done that. Chuck (snook)

Remember that firing order on a B/RB mopar is CCW, no CW... Chuck (snook)

I can't imagine an upgrade from a D60 other than a top fuel or pro-stock application. A Ford 9' is nowhere equivalent. You messing with a 2000+HP application? IMHO of course. Chuck (snook)

I have to say, these are some funky slugs. Down in the hole deck clearance varies across the centerline of the wristpin boss from -0.002 to +0.002 - this is for all 8 slugs. I'm using them right now but they'll be paperweights when I get the new shortblock done this spring. Chuck (snook)

Your lifter bores are OK, I'd suspect the cam at this point. I know roller is more $$$ but it's a lot cheaper than going through another rebuild to clean out the debris after a lobe failure. No winners in either scenario. I went with the Isky EZ-roll lifters and cam for a few reasons; peace of...

Can't go wrong with Rick Chuck (snook)

Look guys, just leave the flat tappets in the past where they belong when we had good USA metallurgy to depend on. Use a good quality roller from ISKY as an example and bite the bullet. Things are never going to be as good as it was when we had good quality metal to depend on. Sucks but it is...

Open or 4 hole probably doesn't matter that much IMO. I'd use either one if I had it on hand. Easy enough to change out if there's a problem. Chuck (snook)

I used the A&A 1/4" 4 hole gaskets. PN# CPGT-2, no adaptor. If you need some spacers, I have a set of 4 hole 1/2" spacers. Carbs are the same bolt pattern as the 3705's as far as I know. I'm going to try the 1405's (625cfm) but I may go with 750's after I see how it runs. Chuck (snook)

This is the setup: - A&A PN# MWCFF-2: Max Wedge Carb Fuel Fittings with Small Filters and 90 degree Elbows for 3705 and Most After Market Carter and Edelbrock Carbs (Pair) - A&A PN#MWMK: master crossram linkage kit. You'll have to open up the carb ball stud holes a bit to get them to mount...

Finally got the fuel system sorted out. The correct Fine Lines Kit ($74.07 + shipping) is: Part Number RPC6203OM (62-63 Mopar B-Body 413/426CID Wedge, w/ Edelbrock Dual 4BBL Carbs, X-Ram, Pump to Carbs Fuel Line Set; Steel). This is the correct set to use when you are running Edelbrock 1400...

Give PTC a shot. They have been dead nuts on for me. Chuck (snook)

I didn't read the fine print, so this was on me. Anyways, I had a rude awakening when I went to put the engine pulley system together. The factory crank pulley was 0.440" too long out of alignment with the water pump pulley, shims ain't going to work. Luckily, I stumbled across Doty...

Great, thanks! Chuck (snook)