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I bought my strap style wrench from the Snap on guy (obviously over paid), but it works on everything I work on.

Good call! It takes out all the fun of not knowing what direction stuff will fly!

More for the beginner, wrench turners know this progression well. :lol:

Right, nitrile 0-rings are not forgiving (at all), they will split/cut at the littlest of movement. But like eldubb440 said, if you tighten things up and it will hold a vacuum, charge it and get your pressures up, or like toolmanmike said use a duct thermometer, if memory serves I think we...

What Nxcoupe said. If your system is low there is a leak, whether it's a pin hole or a nitrile o-ring, the system is leaking so two options 1-charge and add UV dye, find the leak, recover the system, repair, recharge (lots of work) or 2-recharge the system until your pressures are where they...

It's been years since I did any A/C work for a living. But, if your going to be opening up the system to do repairs, you want an Recovery/Charge System like the one mentioned earlier. You need to capture the freon that's in the system before you crack it open. Also, you'll want tp read up on...

That thing looks like it was powder coated!

Yup, we use the same Ryobi+1 system at work, facility maint. The recip saw is great, if you throw a foot long demo blade on it, I'm sure you could drag it down. But for normal use it would be hard to beat. I've been there going on 4yrs and haven;t had a batt go out on us.

Not sure how familiar you are with TIG welding, you're going to love the results, so much cleaner! But if you're running a dry torch just keep in mind the heat build up. It's easy to get into the job (stacking dimes) and forget about how hot the torch/handle is getting. :thumbsup:

Heck of an upgrade! :thumbsup:

Very cool! If you ever saw two teenagers on mini-bikes driving around like they were indestructible (no helmets of course) that was probably me and my friend Jimmy! Pretty sure him and I were the only ones with mini-bikes in that area at that time. We had a friend that lived near Celestine...

Use to drive past raynals all the time growing up in detroit (60's and 70's), we lived at chalmers and 6 mile rd (Seymour). My dad bought a 70 Fury III from raynals, everyone called it the purple plymouth. I think the color was "deep amethyst pearl"? It's the car I started turning wrenches on.

Pre-drill the through hole, run the cutter slow, I would suggest having a can of WD-40 (might keep the alum from sticking to your cutter. Go at it easy and it should work.

Before you jam an endmill into the material make sure it is a "Center Cut" endmill. Not all endmills are center cut and can be plunged straight into the material. Look at the end of the mill (depending on the number of flutes) at least two of the cutting edges should meet dead center, if not...

If you really want to get the socket onto the bolt, you can grind the face of the socket to remove the chamfer going into it. This will give you full contact with the bolt head (recommend using a socket you don't mind grinding on).

My 2 cents: I live 13 miles from the geographical center of the lower peninsula of Michigan, and use white vinegar for stripping parts (as long as you're not in a rush). It's cheap, bio friendly, don't know if it will freeze (mine never has). It doesn't care whats on the part, if it doesn't...

:rofl:

True, they will have a larger gullet in the tooth pattern.

If your using a burr, high speed (HS) steel will load up a lot quicker than carbide. The HS burr will heat up and the alum will adhere to it, where the carbide won't heat as quick due to it's RC-90 hardness. Also, as posted earlier WD-40 works very well.

Yup, things are pretty flat here in Michigan. I have had to lock the surge to back up a driveway once, but that's its. The option to hit the trailer brakes separate from the tow vehicle if things go sideways is a good thing, similar to the air brakes on a big rig (if that's even an option...