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I rebuilt mine with a kit from firm feel I believe. It wasn’t hard at all. I did a thread on it. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/rebuilding-my-manual-steering-box.170786/

That is correct, earlier years used them. You don’t need it

Looks like you got everything you need. 68 came with the shorter nut pcv. Mine is incorrect but I had it on the shelf and I plan on swapping it later. I went with the chrome breather. Not sure but it seems they could have come with either. I just thought the chrome would look nicer.

Its not a whole lot, I used some plates from my hydraulic press. I had my hinges rebuilt with oversized pins and they have pretty much zero flex. But the plates Id say are probably close to 15 lbs each Id guess. When i put my glass and mechanisms in all was fine.

I found mine at my local hardware store. They have a decent nut and bolt isle.

I did mine a few months ago and just walked out to check. The long end does go on the front.

Looks good!

Either going to be in the switch or the motor. It’s not returning to stop position. I don’t have them on me right now but you can search in here for motor test procedures to see if it’s in the motor. I did mine a few weeks ago but I can’t remember exactly how to check the return to stop. It’s...

Haha very well could be. I’ll guess we’ll drum roll and wait for the OP to comment and clear things up.

He said “to roll the body around”

Yeah bigger wheels are the way to go. I wish I had went with ones with tires so I could at least roll it outside some. These keep you confined indoors for sure haha.

Here’s what I built. Flat plate that bolts to the bumper bracket mounting holes. Weld the plate to square tube welded to Harbour Freight caster wheels.

They're the same. Except for the strip as you mentioned. The supports underneath I think are a little different but nothing that wont let it fit. My 68 Bee's original bulge hood was damaged and I replaced it with a 69. No issues

Just used that kit ^ on my 383. Everything fit great. I always use the fel pro kits. Or save a couple dollars and use the sealed power ones, same thing.

I've found mig wire on my car stuck to the weld and broke off from the factory.

I've seen nice ones go from $700-$900 give or take a little. I would think $1500 is a little high, but if it's in great shape you never know.

I purchased a driver door a couple months ago that was completely gutted but a good shell that needed minor work for $200. Not sure if I paid to much but compared to others I looked at it seemed a good price.

I'd no doubt keep the 70 Bee. Between the other two, probably keep the 69 Bee. But either way your still gonna have 2 nice Mopars!