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Since I've never changed or altered an odometer, it's possible to reset the number without disassembly with a neat trick. Or, it can be disassembled and reset. Again... I don't recall ever doing either method. The reverse drill method is very long and arduous... I've heard.
A method I learned from an old timer over 50 + years ago. Electrical ? Ignore all those wires, check ONE system at a time, ONE circuit at a time, using a trace-back method. Find out WHAT that circuit is supposed to do, WHEN it's supposed to do what it does, and WHAT makes it do what it does. One...
I didn't read through all the posts here, so I'll just add a tidbit to your initial post. I'd start at the bulkhead connector, be sure the connections are clean and tight ( years ago I recall a Ford Grenada with an electrical issue, I poked under and discovered the bulkhead connector wasn't...
Good replies here, but I would not just slow-charge the battery. You need to search for the draw, whether it's a faulty alternator, or another component thats eating up the battery charge.
Of course not. I was just asking what was their answer. And telling you what has been my experience for over 50+ years. What you're saying is that, they're selling headers that won't fit generally available starters ? I'm sure there's members here with TTI headers who could chime in. Unless...
I've only used the M&H/Year One stuff, and that's the only one I'd use again. Is the car empty, or the wiring still in place ? It's really not difficult either way.