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Gomer's third cousin built it??

The pin is damaged. The PO put it togeter and it failed, his fault. NO shop here will fool with the pin. I will pay for a converson driveshaft,

I have read the pin can be a booger to press out, and I have also read it needs to be installed with about .003 tolerance or it will have bad vibration. 64 Bel 318 poly. I have another shaft to press a usable pin out of. I would do a conversion be it invoves two trips thru Houston and 6 hours...

Like said, I have 2 other trunnion shafts the correct length. I will try to get the shaft on out today/ I did advertise the car for sale in parts cars!! Too nice for such but the buyer can part it or have a cool driver.' If I end up keeping it I may very well just do the conversion joint.

For sure, this will get moved to the forale area, BUT I willl beat them to it. Going there now under parts cars for sale. THIS car is 99% DONE< needs the trunnion done, the brake light switch, and fix the bad sockets in the trunk. Runs/drives great till the DS started its BS! BUT I'm in...

The PO had installed a new boot on it but had it just half way in which is worthless, bearings had failed. I. ready to get down to one or two done cars, BUT you can't gibe away a good 64 Bel MORE door!! Too bad it is not a tri five Chevy. ha

I got to get it back up in the air and gt the driveshaft out. At 75 Its hard to get down and back up. Good thing I have a wife that will hlp when she has time. I admit I am NOT used to being in this way!!! I have 3 other trunnion shafts that have been sitting how many decades??? One is out...

It has all of a sudden developed a trrible vibtation as I start off and the smooths out with some speed. Jacked it up and vibation coming from trunnion joint. I know that pin is a pressed in deal and hard to get off with a press and I must be exactly centered, ( I doubt it has moved!) so I...

Yes they sell a piece to do this for $100 or so plus shipping. New boxes are what $300 plus freight??

It is an A/B box and I don't think it is hardly one year. But I understand the idea!!!!!

I have done 4 speed cars for decades but getting the right box and handle was easy. Now stupid $ for everything. I can see why I can't drill and use the push in box. It shorten the handle by what 1 1/2 inches maybe. Glad it worked for you!!!!!

I know there is an adaptor, but why can't it just be ground to fit in and drilled and bolted in??

I think making the auto bracket into the 4 speed bracket is same process as the 66 up ones.

I have changed over the Auto to 4 speed trans bracket on lots of 68-70 B bodies, but the last time I dealt with this was back in the 90s on an early B car. Can't remember what I did for it to work. What I have is a slant 3 on tree car going to a BB and 4 speed (69). I have the aftermarket...

The correlation ( angle) between eng. and pinion going down the road is what makes it work! But you know that! Looking forward to your RoadKill drives!!!!

Way back decades (90s) ago I bought a nice 68 GTX 440 4 back home in Ga. and headed back to Mo. I stopped off at a friend to see some parts he wanted it I sold it to him. He was into drag racing. He gets it out on the interstate late night and opens it up. It ran great till he got it up...

You are correct. Never thought of it that way!!!!

I would do that IF I had the eng. I have the trans, no bell. IF no o e buys this project I will finish it and keep it for my last build. Welding in the hump helps eliminate the buyers that want it as an auto. car maybe!!

Can someone give me measurements to properly locate the hump, reference to the firewall and to the side at say the sill?? Thanks!! I had to fab the floor (has original tunnel) and the repop hump is not that great.

I just made an off the cuff comment... maybe get your panties out of the wad?