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That's a nice looking engine bay Runner

Wiring error

*Looks like* hood-mounted signal connector. There should be one for the passenger side too, unless it was done away with. Best thing to do is trace the wire back to the bulkhead pin location and then find it in the front-end lighting wiring diagram from the FSM.

That plug looks good. Nice clean idle. Initial timing mark is about halfway down the strap with the total mark a little closer to the shell, and you've got some good color on the first 3 threads...looking pretty good. Have you cut the shells off to inspect the insulators all the way down...

At 11-1 I'd be starting with an NGK "6" heat range and testing from there. After some run time you should be seeing the top 2-3 threads getting some color on them. "5" heat range NGK plugs are perfect for my 10-1 TF-headed 505". If you prefer another brand there are cross-reference charts on the...

Test it anyway! Let us know what happens.

Okay now we're getting some info! It's fairly normal for the OE-style alternators to NOT put out great at idle, especially "new" parts store units...that said they can still do okay. However! If you're actually showing a discharge at idle then something's wrong IF you're confident the battery...

Keep in mind...it really doesn't matter what the rated output of an alternator is, if your car isn't demanding that amount of current. The alternator will only 'get excited' enough to provide the current that your system is ***** for...in other words, you could strap a 200A alternator on there...

Just make sure the wires are firmly crimped in the lugs by trying your damndest to wiggle and pull them out. If they come loose, they weren't crimped properly! It's a common problem with many aftermarket cables, hopefully not yours!

MSD distributors for BB Mopars fit like crap with many valve covers and especially Trick Flow heads. Some have had to grind on the head, others on the valve cover it just depends on where the interference is. One example here, Distributor clearance issue

T Yeah that is weird...and I don't think you're the only one to experience it. The one I have works okay but my tach is an Autometer.

These days, if you insist on the Mopar-style electronic ignition the unit from FBO can't be beat....and it has an adjustable rev limiter which is nice for those of us with solid cams and good valvetrains! That said, I keep an old known-good MP chrome ECU in the trunk just in case:)

Well dammit....I just saw this thread down in the "similar threads" box and upon reading back through it realized I never followed up on the fix. It was faulty contacts in the OEM ignition switch. Replaced it with a new one, haven't had the problem since (about 2+ years now). I always try to...

Don't forget the 8-ball shifter handle! (Any musclecar I own will have one...80s stoner throwback thing..) I like the OP's idea because it's a subtle mod that you don't see on every 60s musclecar...that's the spirit of hot rodd'n....I mean Jeez it's not like he's putting an LS in or anything! I...

It is if you want to keep it in line with the factory spec. In reality, it doesn't matter....what matters is, where the rotor points when piston #1 is at TDC firing needs to be wired to cylinder #1, and then the rest of the plug wires get connected according to the firing order and distributor...

Yeah, I agree with the above. If it's that stubborn, just pull the pump. Not too tough on a BB Mopar..

You'll have to have the moderators do it

You can if you tie the IGN1 and IGN2 wires together ('crank' and 'run') with the wire that runs to your coil. Not the best way but it will work. Keep in mind, you also need switched 12V to Hyperspark's box.

:lol: