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MSD distributors for BB Mopars fit like crap with many valve covers and especially Trick Flow heads. Some have had to grind on the head, others on the valve cover it just depends on where the interference is. One example here, Distributor clearance issue

T Yeah that is weird...and I don't think you're the only one to experience it. The one I have works okay but my tach is an Autometer.

These days, if you insist on the Mopar-style electronic ignition the unit from FBO can't be beat....and it has an adjustable rev limiter which is nice for those of us with solid cams and good valvetrains! That said, I keep an old known-good MP chrome ECU in the trunk just in case:)

Well dammit....I just saw this thread down in the "similar threads" box and upon reading back through it realized I never followed up on the fix. It was faulty contacts in the OEM ignition switch. Replaced it with a new one, haven't had the problem since (about 2+ years now). I always try to...

Don't forget the 8-ball shifter handle! (Any musclecar I own will have one...80s stoner throwback thing..) I like the OP's idea because it's a subtle mod that you don't see on every 60s musclecar...that's the spirit of hot rodd'n....I mean Jeez it's not like he's putting an LS in or anything! I...

It is if you want to keep it in line with the factory spec. In reality, it doesn't matter....what matters is, where the rotor points when piston #1 is at TDC firing needs to be wired to cylinder #1, and then the rest of the plug wires get connected according to the firing order and distributor...

Yeah, I agree with the above. If it's that stubborn, just pull the pump. Not too tough on a BB Mopar..

You'll have to have the moderators do it

You can if you tie the IGN1 and IGN2 wires together ('crank' and 'run') with the wire that runs to your coil. Not the best way but it will work. Keep in mind, you also need switched 12V to Hyperspark's box.

:lol:

I know English isn't your strong suit Nacho....but that's pretty much what I said before. And keep in mind the OP is dealing with a Sniper which changes things a bit... Thanks for your post but I reeeally don't need you to educate me on anything concerning electrical...

60A will be sufficient if you aren't adding more loads (electric fans, stereo amp, aftermarket A/C etc) but as was said it needs to provide enough power at idle which the factory units usually can't (because they didn't need to when they were designed)....and simply swapping to a higher-output...

Sounds like the regulator to me too. 'If it was me' just to be safe I'd crawl under the dash with a flashlight and do a good inspection of the wiring, especially at the bulkhead and ammeter terminal area. If you smelled it in the cabin, something got hot and could possibly have melted a little...

New sending units are a crapshoot unfortunately. You can either buy another one or three (they're cheap, try to buy them from different sources) and test them, or add a resistor of the necessary value in-line with the wire. I did the resistor trick some years ago (put it behind the dash out of...

IMO everyone should have a clamp-style (or U-style, like the Fluke T-600/1000) multimeter so current can be measured without having to de-terminate wires and put the meter leads in line with the circuit. The first thing (I) would do is take a current reading under the dash when the needle goes...

@RJS I like those topper kits, thanks for posting!

The FIRST thing I always do in a no-charge/discharge situation, when I believe the battery is good, is to momentarily full-field test the alternator to rule it out as a suspect. More often than not it turns out to be an alternator problem. Quick, easy and...free!

Little sonsabitches

The hyperspark is controlled through the efi's ECU, so no-go with a carb.

Hahaha you know I love ya Nacho! :p