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They don't need the 20+ minute break in like FT cams, and you should not use the high zinc oils but it's still good practice to pre-lube the engine, fire it, and get the rpms up-n-down between 2000 and 3500 for just a minute, to get everything happy. At least that's what Dulcich told me and it's...

Congrats, that's awesome! VERY cool car by the way! In the age of most car shows being 50%chevy, 45%ford, and 5% "other makes" it's very cool to see a Mopar get the nod....thanks for sharing!

440 motor what is it from

LOL

The first thing "I" would do is confirm the balancer is accurate.. Then make sure you're not lean under load...You can do a quick test of this by temporarily richening the carb (even if you go a little too rich, just don't get crazy) and seeing if it still pings. Beyond that a couple of things...

Oooh plush! Gotta be careful with those though, you might not want to leave especially in wintertime. I think Elvis had one....

For holes I use an old 1/4"-drive deep socket, maybe 5/16" or so....heat the end up with a handheld propane torch and it slides right through, it actually makes a small hole and cauterizes the fiber and removes the 'slug' for perfect fitment. Need a different size hole, use a different socket...

I've used 1-7/8 hookers with those heads, plug boots were tight and a few tubes needed some beating to clear the plugs. Now have 1-7/8 TTIs, no problems. Changing all 8 plugs takes me 15 minutes..

As long as you reinforce that driver side, you should have no problems:usflag:

Thought I'd update this for general info. Got my 505" in and running with the Moroso solid mounts on both sides, $35 for the pair and had them powdercoated for $5 each. Upon first test drive, they did admittedly bug me a little... Not so much that I felt a bunch of harsh vibration, but more...

FWIW--my flowkooler pump leaked out the weep hole in less than a year. But, since you seem to have a repeat issue, how's the alignment between the water pump pulley and crank pulley? Needs to have less than 1/16" or .0625" alignment difference between groove centers. Also, make absolutely sure...

McMaster-Carr Go to the hex bolts/screws section. Look for the 'Extreme Strength' flange head bolts. They don't show the brand names of the stuff they sell but any time I've bought those they were ARP, in stainless or black oxide.

$24K is definitely too much for all the work that poor thing needs. It's creepy to look at..

Yeah... Just a little shot at the 'fake fender tag' police...in fun, of course:)

Is the fender tag still intact? Asking for a friend

Seems like all the Shumacher stuff has been unobtanium lately...yeah I'd call to see if they actually have any.

Well I think the only safe bet is a solid at least on the driver side. What some guys do is run a bolt through the stock mount, with a nylon locknut on one side and a countersunk head. Leave the nut a turn or two loose so it's not 'solid' per se but it will prevent any lifting when you're...

Beautiful. Like a big piece of orange candy...

I'm sure they've worked for some, and I probably just got a bum set...but your hood will thank you to not take the chance:D

Send them back Bio! I thought they were a good idea too, and the driver side failed within a few months behind my auto trans 440 that MIGHT flirt with 500HP on it's best day! You're also making good power, and running a 4-speed. After riding in some friend's cars that use solid mounts and not...