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mancini racing has them for 440 for 3195 dollars as shown

I was a Senior Manager of Electrical Engineering at Chrysler was involved in many products including the viper and prowler programs and yes I had lab cars of each. I also worked with the SRT group developing engine controllers for their vehicles. By the way when I went to meetings with the VP of...

Glad you're okay, car parts are better to replace than body parts. Things happening like this make for a more conscious check list next time. Happens more often then we would like.

From your opening post all this was done do to overheating in town and the electric fans fixed that but created all the other issues. So was the overheating in town lack of air flow because of a bad clutch fan or no shroud? Seems air flow was the original issue so fix that issue and get rid of...

Since you only have the electric fans I would test the system by temporarily adding a relay to shut fans off at highway speed to see effects on cooling. Is alternator grounded to the engine? Is the alternator internal regulated? Reason I'm asking it sounds like your overvoltage and the regulator...

Fans should be contolled by a fan controller or relays and a temp switch. Does the vehicle have fan shroud? Are you still running the mechanical fan with the electric fans? As for the buzzing when turn signal on could indicate high voltage causing the flasher to cycle fast. Do you have anyway of...

yes

I used a fan/shroud combo from coolingcomponentsinc.com on my hot rod with 392 hemi works well. check their website out for size of you radiator and clearance required.

Usually the bars with the odd number goes on the left and an even number the right side. Some have a L OR R also. The third way was paint spots two on the left and one on the right.

Usually there is a fuse for brake lamps/turn signals off the hd lamp switch which also feed the panel lamp fuse. The panel lamps out also mean you had no brake lights which could possibly be your problem. Check to see that your have brake lamps function.

Coil will draw 3-4 amps with ignition on and not running that would be equal to a 60 watt light bulb. Put your hand on the bulb it would be hot.

I used dennys drive shaft they were very helpful on the tech end with getting what I wanted. www.dennysdriveshafts.com

If they say Chrysler fire power they are gen I hemi covers

My reply was to his question of removing the K-member without dropping the whole suspension. If you are removing the K-member only then you need to loosen the lower control arm nut off the pivot to get the K-frame out. As well as the drag link, idler arm torsion bars and pitman arm. He went the...

Yes you need to undo the nuts and tap the bolt back so the K-frame can be removed.

You would need to remove the drag link, strutrods, pitman arm, idler arm, and torsion bars and exhaust.

Over on moparts there is a member named docdifferential that has the axle shafts and rear brake assembly to replace what your tapered shafts and brake assemblies. cost is not cheap though about six hundred for new axles and brake assemblies.

I run the 11363 cam from PAW below its 290 duration advertised and 230 a .050 it is healthy for the street my 392 runs great with 2x4 carbs and 2800 stall convertor and 3:50x1 rear and behind a turbo 400 trans. It has a lopey idle but idles pretty nice.