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@Nacho-RT74 nice diagrams! Would a 1970 B body be the same as E Body and 1971 and later B?

I'm leaning in the direction of a wiring problem behind the dash, or at the bulkhead, or the fuse box. (or all 3) Power goes into the headlight switch on the top spade connector (black, marked B1 on the back of the headlight switch). It should be hot at all times. This is for headlights ONLY...

Looks like you're doing it right! Signed..... The guy on eBay

And if that doesn't work out I have rebuilt originals

Did you get this handled? You can use any of the '68-'70 B body 3sp switches, and '69-'71 C body 3sp switches. Swap the knob (held in with a roll pin) from your 2sp to the 3sp (minor trimming on the inside sides MAY be necessary).

Unplug the switch. Still have a power drain? Verify the colors B=Pink P=Dark Blue A=Brown F1=Red F2=Green W=? (sometimes white, sometimes brown with a tracer)

That was me. Let us know what you find!

65-68, all MoPars

If you have it attached correctly (pay attention to the 2 browns) then it is time to unplug the bulkhead connector in the interior and verify that the wires are in fact going to the right opening, and they coincide with the same color wires on the engine side. Never assume. I purchased a new...

You will see letters on the back of the switch. These are the factory harness colors, don't know how they match up to yours A - Brown B - Pink on original harness (Ignition On Power) F2- Green F1 - Red P - Blue W - Also brown The picture they have is a 70-71 switch

I saw the pic of the wiper motor, what about a pic of the wiper switch? Or the # on it?

http://www.passion4mopars.com/Bench-Test-Mopar-2-Speed-Wiper-Motors-Concealed-and-Nonconcealed_b_5.html This is the motor test, courtesy of Passion4Mopars To test the park function on your wiper switch you should have continuity between "B" and "P" (Blue wire) on the back of your switch, only...

That would do it. I have those c-boards (restored originals) if you can't repair yours

At this point you are going to have to eliminate things one by one. And no assuming allowed. Unplug anything with an orange wire, try the rheostat, repeat. That would be radio, console illumination, etc. Even the 'new' dash circuit board. If nothing changes the problem may lie in the dash...

What year, model? Turn signal indicators in the cluster, or out on the fenders?

If keeps blowing the dash light fuse? Then start looking at all the wiring and bulbs in that circuit. I have seen people install the wrong bulbs before. What else is in the dash light circuit? Tail lights?

Did you get it handled yet?

But of course. Lets hope you find something simple.

I rebuild a lot of the variable switches. I can assure you they are not available at parts stores. It does sound like either the switch in the dash isn't grounded well enough, the switch in the dash isn't powering up the blue wire on the back of it when in the 'OFF' position, or the parking...

Yikes! Problem found..... Repair the known issue first. One looks melted?