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1st things 1st, drain oil, send sample in for analysis. Replace filter with quality filter and oil with 20w50. At this point you will at least know that it has good filter and oil. After that, it could be many things. Easiest w engine still in is oil pump in my opinion.

I went from Comp hydraulic roller cam n lifter to Hughes hydraulic roller cam n lifters. All are different. Pushrods for Hughes combo are "about" 3/8" shorter than the Pushrods for the Comp combo. Lifter plunger/body on Hughes is longer. When I did all my ptv, roller to valve tip geometry and...

@440plymouthgtx you might need to expound on what you disagree w on my head flow chart. Hope that's not too big a word.

Not sure what the concern is. It is extremely easy to pop one side and swing it out. No adjustments necessary to reinstall. And makes the job very simple. It adds 10 minutes to the job. Spend more time posting on the site.

I didn't request it. This was in 2019 or 2020. I'm not sure if the flow every set. I would think w a CNC that every set would be exactly the same, no need to flow each. If the customer wanted some extra "blending" or something special besides the standard, proven CNC then they might flow those...

Muscle Motors in Michigan does great CNC work on the Stealth heads also. Just another option.

To answer the original question, "no leaks" is normal. My '03 cummins developed a leak, paid 2k in labor for a $5 seal to fix it. My 4.6 DOHC w turbo in my jet boat has no leaks, my '67 383/496 had a rear main leak from machine shop, fixed it. 3 motorcycles, 1 Harley, 1 '79 Suzuki, 1 '08...

Use a "Melonized" gear. Bronze wear, which "can" lead to timing issues, fine bronze particles in lifters along w all over engine oiling system, they are a consumable item. A Melonized gear works w the roller cam gear and is a one time purchase. Hughes has them. As for cam button, I used a 440...

I purchased a melonized gear from Hughes. Called about using it after using bronze. Was told that if cam gear was clean, "absolutely" no bronze left on cam gear, then ok. Reasoning was the bronze is so soft and will kind of "ball up" if even the slightest bit left. If I understood correctly. Due...

Typically more timing at idle then backing off idle rpm will help w stalling when putting into "D"/"R". As for hard brake pedal, that's "typically" a vacuum issue or bad booster.

Sorry, I get confused sometimes when someone starts a thread and asks for recommendations and then someone else says what they're gonna do.

He didn't say .500 cam, he said "mid" .500, as in .550, cam. I broke Smith Brothers 5/16 pushrod on a .547 lift hydraulic roller. It was a clean break where the bottom of the pin from the cup pressed into the tube. Smith Brothers said they don't know why the tech sold me 5/16" pushrods as they...

I ran a 5/16 pushrod in mine w a .541/.537 lift hydraulic roller. Broke one of the cups on #8 pushrod. Per 440 anything over about .510 lift will require 3/8 and above that they recommend roller rockers. I only had to do intake side for clearance once I got the new 3/8" pushrods.

Way too small. Factory fans were 17-18" rigid 7 blade for stock big block, much less 600+ hp. If it's good cruising, then it's not getting enough air at slow speeds, fan size to start. Other variables out there, but start w fan. Mancini sells a factory authorized 26" shroud.

If it steadies out at 215-220ish and doesn't keep climbing, you're OK. Do we like seeing it, no. Get rid of that aluminum shroud n fan, get an 18-19" direct drive 7 blade fan. Get a repop factory plastic shroud that has curves, is molded. I'm running 496" 610hp/670tq in 120°+ AZ heat w a/c. 19"...

It could be any number of contaminants. 20 yrs is a long time and no matter how careful we are, something can get in there. From your description, it's running great. As above, change oil n filter and see what you have after a full heat cycle.

That is a ton of carbon on the pistons for 1,000 miles.

I have a "mild" roller in my 496", unfortunately it has a very early intake close and w 10.2:1 aluminum heads, very high cranking psi. I get detonation on 91 octane. I'm going more aggressive roller now with much later intake close and should be getting much better cranking psi and hopefully...

@fourgearsavoy, your cam, lift duration etc don't tell the whole story. What heads, cranking psi, intake closing after TDC etc. As far as springs and lash, I tend to go with what the cam manufacturer recommends.

I don't believe the OP cares how everyone broke in their flat tappet cams or your suggestions to use one. He is specifically asking about thoughts on roller cam.