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Was just making a point that it seems the hardened steel needed for lifters n cam cores is the issue everywhere.

Comp told me May for a hydraulic roller, Hughes had very similar in stock. Hughes said he would have recommended solid roller but the lifters were about 9 months backorder.

Yes, same guy. I met him in 2010. Back then he did most of his fab work w a 4-1/2" angle grinder, bench vice and welder out of a 10x10 bedroom in his house.

Here's my buddy Slim.

A buddy of mine in Redlands, CA does fabrication work. One of his favorite projects is late 60 early 70's vans. Chops them way down, puts a BB Mopar in the back, uses a Casale V-drive and runs exhaust out the roof. They all wheelie pretty well. Leaves them raw steel or primer n usually ends up...

If cost is a factor, flat tappet solid. If not, solid roller. Roller will give more longevity and minimize a wiped lobe, break in etc. Will need new pushrods as well due to the length of the roller lifter.

Are you wanting at the crank or at the tires hp? I've got a very mild 496 stroker w 610/670 hp/tq at the crank.

My 496 w Comp hydraulic roller 230/236 massaged Stealth heads made 610/670 hp/tq at the crank. But I'm at 10.2:1 compression on 91 octane.

Completely understand you wanting whatever you get to work. I enjoy my manual brakes, 4dr '67 Coronet w BB n automatic. The larger 11" rotors require 15 rims. I cannot in good faith give you a recommendation on the correct master cylinder for 4 piston calipers. I can say that my larger disc...

You have an aftermarket front disc brake kit already, but you never stated what it is. Disc diameter, single or double piston calipers. I use the larger Dr Diff rotors and single piston calipers. Manual brakes w 15/16" master cylinder. My car was already manual brakes so my pushrod and pedal...

I'm not sure if you need the adapter plate going from power to manual. I'd get a modern 15/16 bore master cylinder that you can get from any parts store. If you need the adapter plate, Dr Diff sells them. You already have a power brake pushrod. The difference w Dr Diff is his are machined out to...

I'm using 15/16" on my manual disc/drum on my '67 Coronet 4dr and it stops on a dime. My 110 pound daughter can stop it easily w no leg strain.

I may be completely misunderstanding what you're referring to but unless a bolt comes loose, gets sucked up inside the air cleaner past the filter, through the carburetor, it should be just fine torqued to spec.

440 Source Stealth heads that were ported by Muscle Motors.

My little 496 w a relatively mild, no lope, hydraulic roller cam, 10.2:1 w aluminum heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane intake made 610/670 hp/tq at the crank. HP came in at 5,200rpm. So a "built" 511", should be pretty easy to get 700.

As I stated earlier, I've had the same Dodge Ram Diesel for 19 yrs. I keep seeing posts of "added" cost or "high" maintenance. Can someone please explain and be specific, other than "my wife's brother's friend"?

If you don't mind doing a little handyman work, airport shuttle busses are always for sale. Ford V10. They are already geared steep. Definitely take a hit on fuel, but anything gas used sells cheap up front. Then it's a math problem of initial cost plus fuel cost over "X" yrs.

I've had my '03 Ram 2500 Cummins 6spd since Jan 2, 2003. Over 270k miles which is low. I used diesels for 23 yrs in the Army. Not sure about all the "extra" maintenance of diesels everyone talks about. Air filter/air filter, fuel filter/fuel filter, oil n filter/oil n filter. Spark plugs/nope...

They say the stock cover "can" flex. I used a 440 Source stamped cover, it's a bit thicker and say it won't flex.

No bearing behind my roller cam, used nylon button, had to clearance it a little to fit between cam gear bolts, then put a bunch of putty where the button would go and put gasket and timing cover on and torqued. Removed and measured how thick it was and shaved nylon button down to spec. No issues.