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I would recommend getting in contact with Cass ... aka Dr.Diff ... DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I had good luck with Roosevelt alignment off the 1-17 ... (623) 937-3501 ... last time I was there they were still using the Baer alignment rack. 2602 W Townley Ave # 9, Phoenix, AZ 85021

I've got a 67 Charger rear end housing in my 64 and the vent tube is in the same location. Also measuring your flange to flange distance and perch to perch distance will help narrow it down too. Hope this helps.

3/4" box end wrench and let jam against the floor pan.

Looks like an idler to me. My best guess is that the idler completely seized and tore the bracket completely off the frame rail. Had this happen on an old ford once. I was able to use longer bolts and drill holes on the other side of the frames rail.

Here's a 2424L for you https://www.dragracecarparts.co/ssbc-original-equipment-brake-calipers-2424l-free-shipping/ It appears as thought the pads are unique to the SSBC calipers and replacements are almost impossible to find. I recommend you switch over to something other than SSBC.

@fwi I have one in Phoenix if you need to borrow it.

I use my 8 year old grandson when I need to work in tight spots like that ... he LOVES to help grandpa and I can walk pain free the following morning. WIN WIN!!!

So I'm confused ... did you replace the lower ball joint assembly with this or did you replace just the ball joint in the one that you had?

Try taking out the wheel bearing and removing the entire hub / drum assembly. Once it's off tap on the hub or studs with a hammer to force it off the hub

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109 They have a service manual for a 65 which should be close enough.

I would just get it "mostly" tight and then let the alignment shop do the final adjustment/tightening for you.

Pulsating usually indicates a warped rotor(s) or perhaps pads that aren't true.

Have you replaced any of the brakes lines? IIRC if they are not tight enough they will let air in with no loss of fluid.

If you must have a 2" drop you might consider 2" drop spindles.

For those of us too cheap to buy an inch pound torque wrench ... like me http://www.cheatsheeting.com/show.html?sheet=ft-lb-to-in-lb-conversions

Personally I would replace the stud or the booster. I do not ever like taking short cuts when it comes to my braking system.

Locate and purchase a used replacement shaft and install it.

I would suspect a sudden loss of brake pedal indicates a failed master cylinder. For my own education ... What in the world is that braided hose feeding your booster? It's going to a strange area in which to draw vacuum from.

http://www.nospartsdepot.com/3402575.html