Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That is a terrible looking exhaust. With all the issues, now would be the time to get a Jegs, or Summit kit. Do it right. Do it once. If you want to go all out, TTI fits excellent on my Dart, but I kept the factory manifolds. I get it that the price is an issue.
Re use your sending unit locking ring. The new one will leak. Make sure everything is set right with the locking ring, and rubber gasket. Also, drain the tank first. Fuel weighs a ton. As was said, if you can use the original sending unit, do it. The new ones can be inaccurate. Change the filler...
It almost seems as if you are determined to buy this car, after being repeatedly told not to. You shouldn't ask for opinions if you are going to ignore them. I have extensive sheet metal replacement experience, and I wouldn't touch that car. The rust will be 5 times worse than what you think it...
If he is asking for top dollar, which I think he is, they need to get the car out where you can determine its value. If not, then you have to assume that everything you can't see needs repair, and your offer should reflect that. I see this all the time, where people want top dollar, but won't...
Buy it for parts, at a parts car price. If the underhood induction is missing, that can be very expensive. All that body work requires a lot of time, knowledge, and equipment. You will need to buy another car just to get all that's missing. Save your money. Buy a better car.
The title is always an issue. I see a lot of ads that say Needs title, easy to get. Then they want several thousand dollars for it. (Sound familiar? )
If getting the title is so easy, the seller should get it before trying to sell it. That BS wasn't such an issue when project cars were a few...
My experience has been that the cheapo rebuilds always leak, screw up, something. I went through 4 boxes till I finally bought a box from Steer and Gear. Call them, or Firm Feel, to get the right answers and order a well built box.
My 64 Sport Fury was having the same issues. I bought a new pushrod. Checked it against the one in the engine. Same size. The car would start, but if I pushed on the gas, it would bog, and stall. Of course it did this 3 hours from home. At the Daytona Turkey Rod Run. I drove it gently, and it...
The pic you posted shows the slotted arm and spring in the wrong position. The spring should pull the slotted kickdown lever towards the front of the car. In other words, where the slotted rod goes on to the carb throttle lever, it should be at the back of the slot, so when the carb lever moves...
Im using a Carter electric fuel pump. The high output one. I'm running a spin on marine style filter. Looks like an oil filter. Anyway, when setting it up, I had it as close as possible to the tank. I had the filter before the pump. Wouldn't pull fuel. I changed it to the filter after the pump...
If you want to eliminate the fuel pump, disconnect the inlet to the pump, put a rubber line into a gas can, and see if it still does it. If it does, it's in the pump area. If it doesn't, it could be a part of the fuel line vibrating against something else. I would check this first.
Get rid of the electric fans.go to an 18 inch fan,and shroud, with the fan 1/2in, 1/2 out of the shroud. Put a 180 thermostat in it with a 1/8 inch hole drilled in it to prevent air pockets.
The fuel evaporates quickly from the small float bowls. Modern fuel blends may contribute too. I put a small electric fuel pump with a momentary switch to get fuel up to the carb. Then it runs on the mechanical pump.