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Most of the time. The first problem is they couldn't build it even if the machine work was done correctly and everything fit together the first time. Since they can't build it and they have no fricking idea whats missing or were to find it. So now you get to be parts counter guy, machinist...

It may not be the engine it could be the transmission. Pull the transmission back and see if it turns then. You can't get the torque converter bolts if it will not turn.

External cracks can be repaired very easy. Look for videos on the Lock & Stitch proceedure for repairing cracks. You can do it yourself. We use this alot in my machine shop for just this type of problem. Good Luck

I'm not saying anything about there work or your work. It's just one small thing most of the time that screws everything up. But If I didn't ask questions I wouldn't have a clue how to try and help

It's hard to explan. The side of the rod needs to fit the radius of the crank at the counter weight. Are you using stock rods or aftermarket ? If you are using stock rods a good shop manual will so you where the lock tangs on rods face. But a easy way to tell is if they are numbered the number...

If it's the rods that are the problem you only have a couple of things to check. 1. Are all the rod caps on the rods in the right direction and the right cap on the right rod. 2. Are the rod bearings you got the right size for the crank. if the crank was turned .010 are the bearings marked .010...

It looks like it was going slip slide away. Just before it went

It seems like most of the stuff is made in ping-pong these days. But for something close to stock and not turning 8000 rpms all the time they should work fine. We used a lot of SBI valves. Now they are all made with our old steel in ping-pong that's why the price is so cheap. Even if they are on...