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with my road runner, i gently used a heat gun to soften the glue holding the glass. once the glass is removed, i was then able to tighten the spring clip that holds tension on the pivot. resoften the glue with heat gun and install. be great for over 15 years.
the OP states that engine runs fine except for slight misses at idle. if one side of idle circuit is trying to supply whole engine for fuel, might explain the rich bank of plugs depending on how the runners are going from plenum. just my two cents for something to look at. might be something...
i am running a stroker and the engine is much happier with the higher timing at idle using manifold vacuum. also had a distributor tuned on a machine and that made the difference for me.
that pic helps a lot. called their service dept. and was asked to measure the distance between of what i feel are good lifting points and look at there fitment chart for choice of lift for my needs.
just curious if anyone is using one. a lot of the pics from their website shows more modern vehicles and wanted to know if any of the models will match up to a good jack points underneath for a safe situation.
https://www.quickjack.com/quickjack-measuring-guide.html
i have to disagree that they are the same from 1966-1970. they will all physically bolt in but ones for 1966-1967, the heat blend door arm is opposite the ones used in 1968-1970. there is also a molding change at the defrost tube outlets for the years 1966-1967 to 1968-1970. the heater core...
i have a hard time believing that mancini makes there own cores. i would think they are getting them from the few suppliers that are still using copper and brass (getting harder to find). here is a listing from ebay...
check your grounds from the tank to the gauge cluster. when there is a mystery electrical problem, check the grounds. not a guarantee but a good practice. bad grounds do some pretty weird stuff.