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I wasn't suggesting you go back to drums. What I was doing was pointing out the different fluid volume requirements for drum v/s disc as a good place to start investigating why the new setup wasn't working for you. Do you still have the factory proportioning valve in the system? Do you have...

I am no braking expert, but I think you stumbled on your own answer in your post. The two braking systems you like are rear drums. The one you don't has rear discs. Point is the rear discs take a lot more fluid capacity and movement than the wheel cylinders on a drum set up. Ask Cal what...

Again nothing wrong with what you have said. I switched my D100 over to 3/4 ton just to get the bigger brakes as I needed them for towing. I am also building an old Dodge RV that came with 4 whl 12x3 drums. No way was I putting that on the road driving in the mountains towing a toad behind...

You are of course correct. Thing is how many of our weekend cruisers need this rather than just correcting and fine tuning a setup with mismatched parts? It is all a matter of how you use the car I guess. The bigger rotor will provide a larger heat sink, longer lever, and better overall...

Not trying to talk you into or out of anything. I just like to get the most out of what I have already before deciding whether or not to spend a buck. Keep us posted on how your brake project turns out.

I think I would talk with Cass, then swap to whatever master he recommends for the current system before spending the money for 1 " bigger rotors. The 11.75 rotors were used on trucks and c bodies as well. I don't think that is where your brake performance issue is.