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I don't think that junked it because I've seen it done before on fully operational speedos but there's obviously a chance that this time that caused a problem. Do you think a speedometer repair place would be able to deal with it or should I just look for a new one at Carlisle this year?
Not to hijack this thread, but I installed a used speedometer since mine was beyond repair. It occasionally made an awful and very loud grinding noise and the needle would skyrocket to about 100 mph when I was doing 10. I replaced the cable but it still does this and even more frequently. I've...
An update:
I got hold of some Crane Cams adjustable roller rockers and pushrods. They are now installed and ready to go. I initially adjusted lash by finding zero lash (where I could not move the pushrod up and down at all) and then went a half a turn past that. After speaking with the engine...
I'm running the cam that came with Edelbrock's top end kit. Its nothing crazy. Here is the card:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/locator.php?part_number=7194&submit=go
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On that card, which I actually just noticed, is the only place anything is mentioned...
Also, I was hoping to stay away from roller rockers. I don't see a need for them in my application since I am looking at a hot street car which might one day (hopefully) see a strip.
I don't know how to properly set geometry but am more than willing to learn/teach myself. Why can I run stock rockers if Edelbrock says to run adjustables? Why does Edelbrock say to run adjustables?
I'm not questioning you or your logic, just trying to get a concrete understanding.
I just called and spoke with Edelbrock. Apparently I need to run adjustable rockers with a stock ratio. This is the first I'm hearing of this so needless to say I'm slightly annoyed that that was not advertised a bit more.
Would you know what that custom length is?
Also, Edelbrock advertises the heads as bolt on, out of the box. I know assuming is the worst and that may be said only for advertising purposes, but that would mean you should be able to use stock pushrods with those heads.
I'm rebuilding my 440 right now and went with an Edelbrock top end kit. The builder who did my machine work recommended 80 wall pushrods so I called Edelbrock and asked for a length. I was told 9.125" so I ordered some from Jegs (http://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/25928-8/10002/-1). Now that I...
So a quick update. I just dropped the block off at the machine shop. The crank is forged and the rods look like the come from a 440 magnum. The casting number could either be a 73 or 78. I'll post with more info after measurements are taken.
I think I'm going to start calling this the mystery...
I'm most likely going to end up reusing the crank. I initially thought that it would be a cast crank, however, during takedown, I realized that someone had rebuilt my motor at some point in time and most likely put the forged crank in.
The car is going to be a daily driver but I do want to be able to go to the track and run a decent time. I'm going to swap in a 9 1/4 with 3.55s and a posi. 727 trans. I was hoping to do a 4 speed swap but theres not enough money in the bank for that.
I have the engine down to a bare block. I...
Thanks for all of the responses. I have thought it over a lot and I'm going to go with an oem rebuild so I save enough money to do a 4 speed swap as well. I can always do big power later in my life. This is my first rebuild after all.
I've read this in a few places. How would the 8:1 ping itself to death? I have a base understanding of why higher octane is necessary for higher compression but I would like to learn more.
I'm still open to changing my mind. Just based off of the information I have amounted and researched, this is the best route for me. I'm basically asking if anyone has any tidbit of information that I might not know at this point or a helpful opinion.