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I bought this Hemi block and it has never been bored,decked,windowed or cracked and has been completely checked out. If you guys can help I.d. this block it would help me understand the history behind it. The casting date on side of block is 5/4/64
Thank you: Stan
Vacuum is the only thing that controls the rods. I only meant that we we had a stumble at 4000-4500 we went with a different rod which gave us more fuel at that rpm range.
Stan
That's what we did to save time as long as the new rods are giving or taking away fuel in the right RPM range where you might be having issues. If it stumbles right off the bat you can move the accerator pump rod towards the plunger. This will give more fuel on initial throttle. If you move the...
I hope I didn't offend you. You are correct that the manuals and literature will help everyone understand the theory of this type of carb and is a great place to start for the inexperienced.
You would have to have an O2 sensor on each primary header pipe to figure that out. I guess we will never really know. I think the old timers did most of the homework for us. What we do with all this information is up to us now. Spread the joy! and the Mopar love.
Stan
When the vacuum drops the lighter spring will will not be as fast at raising the rod out of the jet than the stronger spring will. The strongest spring you can run with rod completely down at idle in gear is what you want...
We used straight jetting across the board when we first ran the car on the street. The crossram we are running is an A&A 440 not the max wedge one. When we ran the car we used a heat gun to check cylinder temps and they were all over the place. I then spoke with Dan Dvorak who has won more races...
This is information is for off the shelf Edelbrock carbs. Tuning the older AFBs especially the chokeless late 1960s Super Competition series to early 80 carbs have many differences. I agree that this guide is good for people that have no experience with these carbs. Notice the heading of the thread.
The difference between .071 x.047 and .065 x.052 - if you notice the .065 is smaller than .071 but .052 is larger than .047 so the .065 will give more fuel at lower rpm and the .052 which is larger than the .047 will give less fuel on the top end versus the .071 x.047 rod. This allows you to...
When driving the car it's always in gear at a stop for automatics with a little drag from the convrter which affects idle vacuum. So always make sure you are in gear on automatics when setting up the rod spring tension.
I don't get caught up about what it does when parked. You should be in gear at idle if its automatic when setting the springs up. I forgot to mention that. Sorry
I think you should use rods .071x.047 or the .065 x .052s and juggle the jets. As i said if you just wick the throttle they will go up idle down when the motor is under load on the street the rods will stay up and allow full acceleration. But you must use the strongest spring that allows the rod...
as the vacuum catches up the rod will go down so your ok. When its out on the road is the only test. If its uder load with throttle wide open the needles will be up don't worry about that, then as you let off the gas and rpmm strarts coming down the rods will slowly go down. its all progressive...
I like to get to the point where it pops lean and go up larger with the primary jet or smaller with the rod. The larger diameter of the rod is the low rpm diameter of .071 the small diameter of the rod is the high rpm end of the rod. The high and low numbers of the rods switch around so see what...
Let me know how it runs. Our motor is much bigger but has a smaller cam. Your motor is smaller but has a bigger cam. You might try the .071 x .047 rods if it is too rich. if it is too rich with the .071 x .047 rods go down to 104 primary jets with that rod.