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I have the Hellwig front bar. I looked at the Hellwig rear bar and I believe it used a through bolt and a bracket on the inside of the frame rail that I thought would interfere with the mufflers. The ones that use a bracket which attaches to the bottom of the frame rail would not have the same...

I looked into putting a rear sway bar on my 66 Charger. Before you commit to a brand, study the frame mounts carefully, there is not a lot of room between the frame and the mufflers. I ended up with just a larger front bar on mine and it seems fine.

I had the same issue. The lower control arm bushings were the problem

I was on a short time frame, and my buddy had them next day. Normally I would have used RockAuto

I checked over the front end today . I had to readjust the torsion bar height, and the sway bar links. I didn't repaint anything but I did hit the control arms with some brake clean. The car drove home just fine and tracked straight, so I think I am good to go for Carlisle.

Yes I was pleasantly surprized at the labour bill. I ordered Moog upper and lower control arm bushings and strut rod bushings. My buddy who owns a parts store was able to source them locally, which meant I had them quickly. They were close to $150.00 I think. They were showing up much...

I spoke to the shop today and they have the car finished. With the replacement of all the bushings, alignment and wheel balance he figured 8 hours of labour. He wants $600 but I think I will give him a little extra.

I will know shortly. I take my car in Tuesday to replace all of the upper and lower control arm bushings. No cleaning or painting involved, just parts replacement, alignment and wheel balance.

I got the rotor turned today. He didn't have to take much off to clean it up. I did notice that the depth of the small ridge left near the hub was a bit thicker on one edge than the other, so it was warped a bit as well.

I drove the car 125 miles round trip today to a Mopar show. The brakes got a workout several times and worked flawlessly. I am very happy with the conversion. I did find a local shop with a brake lathe so I am taking the rotor in to be turned to get rid of the scoring and true it up. I also...

Interesting! I ordered brand new calipers, and they came with the bolts. As I said I checked the drivers side, and even though it stuck out a couple of threads, it still cleared. All bolts were the same length, and have now been shortened. Everything is back together for the weekend, but I...

I should add I called 4 different shops to see if I could get the rotor turned, and nobody had a working brake lathe any more.

Here is the offending caliper bolt. I had trouble getting a new rotor, and when I checked it was not even close to the same. I checked the original rotor and the gouge was not nearly as bad as it looked. I would say the deepest scratch was perhaps 10 thou. I used emery cloth to take down the...

Full disclosure, I did run into one problem. Dan told me he had to reverse the brackets from the picture on the Scarebird instructions, because the welded nuts contacted the rotor. I double checked the clearance on the driver's side and it was fine, so I went ahead and bolted up the passenger...

I've now had a chance to drive it and the brakes have good pedal feel and not too much effort considering they are manual. The 1 1/32 master worked out.

I finished up the install today. I bench bled the brakes first. When I went to bleed them I had several leaks. The copper washers that came with the banjo bolts were junk. The others that came with the calipers were twice as thick. I got the brake light switch readjusted to the new pedal...

I made a bit of a modification today. I was worried that the shoulder of my studs might have been keeping the rotor from seating perfectly. I pulled them off and used my step drill to countersink them a bit. With the wheels back on it looks pretty good.

By the way Dan, my rotors cleared with the welded nuts facing outward towards the rotor as in their pictures .

I just wanted to update Dan's thread with a few more pictures. I finally got around to installing my set up. I had the machine shop remove the drums and install the new studs in the hubs. I found that I had to remove the upper control arm snubber to get the bolts lined up. I test fitted...

I just went through this on my 66 Charger. I tried lines with fittings but they wouldn't bottom out. I ended up with adapters to 3/16 lines. I switched to front discs so I blocked off the original 1/4 inch inlet port in the distribution block and ran a 3/16 line from the master to feed the...