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I'll be honest - when I was 16 years old my Charger developed a bad box leak and I didn't know enough to fix it at the time nor had the time (was my daily) so I went to AutoZone and got a steering box for like $75 and slapped it in... hasn't given me a single problem since then (18 years ago)...

Welcome to the Hydro Club... did this one about 10 years ago... this was during the mock-up phase.

Under the vehicle the lower control arms have an adjustment bolt that can be tightened / loosened and that is the primary method of setting the ride height -

Maybe with this CORVID-19 thing going around the yards might have large sales like on holidays - local yards to me (never mopar stuff there) does like 50% or 40% off stuff for President's day and holidays.

If you wont be pushing your car very hard they are un-needed IMO I installed them on my 68 Charger with subframe connectors, torque boxes, hemi plates, and lower radiator frame - car is super stiff but again - probably not needed in your application

The Astro Van Hydroboost was out of a 1990-1995 Van - mine specifically was a 1992. Master Cylinder was a 1992 Dodge Ramcharger unit (slight filings to mounting holes was needed to slightly alter bolt pattern) Talon hydraulics had the plate - I asked for one without their logo and they now...

I made my own "kit" for my 68 Charger - Ramcharger master cylinder, rebuilt asto van hydroboost, fittings, pressure lines, and all that - mounting plate was from Talon hydraulics -- whole set up cost me about $250

where did you get the hubs?

I personally don't like the SSBC power brake kit - they use some GM street rod booster and master cylinder with funky brackets... just doesnt seem right to me. If it were me - I would order a booster and master from a local parts house, lines from Fine Lines or similar, and the front disc...

Sorry for your troubles brother - if you need a pair of original arms in good shape I have a spare set

from what little i know - they are plenty troublesome to use (that's what i've heard anyway)

The later model spindles will fit the earlier cars - it is no different than swapping on 73- later A-body spindles onto your earlier B-body... a common practice for cheap disc brake swaps - I have used the 2" drop spindles from Fatman Fabrication on a 68 Charger with a wilwood 6 piston brake...

Why do you need to move the engine ? unless soemone put the centerlink on wrong it should clear just fine - are you using an aftermarket oil pan ? if so there's the problem - don't move the engine - fix the pan selection. Also - subframe connectors should be first on your list. Also Torque...

sure - if you need an explination of my opinions then just ask

F*CK MAGNUMFORCE XV Motorsports is overpriced as all hell

RMS does a 4-link style rear suspension system for B-bodies... http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16175&cat=263&page=1

lets see... overly small torsion bars give poor handling... exsessively big = poor weight transfer... I would say you'd be good to go with .96" bars... good mix of what you want... factory XHD leafs... stock front sway bar... Mopar action i believe did some work to a...

the cammed socket (torsion bad adjuster) is part of the lower control arm - it does not get removed.

Use the Super Stock front leaf spring hangers - it moves the leafs back 2" giving the B-body 22" front segment length - giving the axle correct location in the wheel opening.