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I would probably go with those shorty headers. With you on the plug access with the HP manifolds. You sure do not want to try and change pugs while the engine is hot - blister city. Even if they are total crap in the flow department they are very likely to out flow the HP manifolds. Slim to...

That was a really interesting comparison article - thanks for posting. Steve

No not on mine it was a flat flange plate with 3 holes. One thing the TTI gaskets were not good and failed fast. I would not buy them again. I got them copied at a local gasket maker - no problems now. I used FelPro gaskets at the cylinder head port.

I purchased their front pipe kit. The only thing unique about them is the header flange part.

Short or mid length headers will out run the stock manifolds for sure. I have a 340 with TTI shortys and they work good.

Would you guys mind giving a quick update on what the results are? I would be interested in finding out.

It was no doubt correct the 3 inch pipe may well net a horsepower increase but it will almost certainly be in the upper RPM range. In those tests they will perhaps not mention the torque figures. Most dyno runs will only show you what is happening from 3000 or higher. A true street engine has...

Magnaflow have some good tech info on pipe size for single or dual pipes if anyone is interested. My rule of thumb is on a street car go smaller or be conservative with exhaust pipe size. And if you can be bothered - never met an engine that didn't like headers.

No that large a pipe size will probably kill torque and power.

I purchased the passengers side one and it was fine with a little tidy up with a die grinder in the first part of the manifold. Good repop in my opinion.

I have a 1971 Challenger with the Dynomax mufflers the noise level is acceptable but there is a drone from 2400 to around 2800 rpm. Fine at all other RPM's CMCE is right about every car being different. I have had the most "luck" with Borla Pro XS

If it is too loud resonators will not help much. Fit more mufflers. It will still run fine with 2 straight through mufflers. Vibrant do evidently make a good resonator that will quieten but it is stainless and fairly large round shape. Probably cheapest and easiest to just get another quality...

I would stay with 2.5 inch all the way.

Magnaflow publish their recommendation for exhaust pipe size based on the power output of the engine. The is a lot of info on this subject on the internet. My personal opinion is street cars with engines under 450 cubes and not highly tuned do seem OK with a quality 2.5 inch mandrel bent system.

My view is headers or manifolds really boils down to your own preference and what the car is used for - or the look you want. I have ported exhaust manifolds on a couple of factory high performance engines were the owner wanted the stock look. Time consuming and messy but I am sure they would...

With a larger capacity stroker engine the manifolds could cost you 50 hp. You can get air fuel in but if you cannot get it out the cost will be more as engine size and revs go up.

I think the use of manifolds is likely to cost 20-30 HP. The loss would be more as you revved the engine higher.

If you have iron heads and manifolds and the surfaces are in fair to good condition you can use a coating of high temp RTV and this seals nicely. That is what I did with mine and it is quite easy to do and works really well. I tightened up the manifolds and left it for 24 hours as well before...

I was able to take the drivers side one off without moving anything. I could not get the passengers side one off. It would not slide off the studs before it hit the inner fender. The engine I realised is quite far offset.

After some research it appears equal length headers are better but unequal lengths makes only tiny difference. The chances of getting an equal length header for a car with inner fenders etc would be next to impossible. Short answer equal length is not really necessary. However fitting a header...