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I always use the gas pedal location - forward inner corner of the heel pad, just inside its perimeter - as primary locator. 4-speed hump secondary, and hopefully the carpet is correctly formed. Lay the carpet in the car first and let it sit for a day or two, works best when warm. I use the ft...

I did that some years ago for a bracket-car build. Used a Cheetah shifter, mounted to an aluminum plate, which I attached using the 4-sped boot screw locations. It was a no-cut operation, but I did have to drill a hole for the shifter cable.

Mine had no options except the Hemi & 4-speed requirement (Dana 60) - not even a radio. It was ordered by a USAF airman, who kept a log on it; its job was to race.

Seat inserts for '68 were Reed grain pattern without pleats. Silver visors & headliner. Fun fact: Legendary used my original '68 interior to make the Reed dies and patterns 40 years ago when only the '69 inserts were being done. It could be that late-MY-1968 got the pleated inserts, as the flat...

I ran RN12s in mine: only 438", but biggish Crower cam, ported iron heads, 10.8:1, headers. MSD 6 box, Moroso wires, F150 coil. We did have to sort the carbs (originals on original intake) with some stagger jetting and different metering rod springs, as that cam didn't make much vacuum. After...

Haven't heard of the place - another source is restorationspecialties.com which is also great for body plugs & bumpers, fasteners, clips, etc etc. Detroit Muscle Technologies for body gaskets & the more specialized seals - excellent & accurate stuff. Not sure if they do much for early-Bs...

If the '66 3-speed was still non-synchro 1st gear - my '63 & '64 were - an A230 3-speed from an E-body fits a SB belljust fine: did that on my '64. Different bolt pattern than the 4-speed IIRC. That stuff isn't falling out of the trees, but has little value if you find it. Not sure who does...

My old - like 30+ years old - Calif Car Covers - on my RRs at left - have been great but are finally getting threadbare. I haven't found anything like them now; the current stuff all have elastic or are a thicker material.

2 under the tray that bolt to the bottom of the apron, and 1 above at the front, which also bolts to the apron. Look for threaded inserts at the bolt locations. All of it including the tray were body color, painted assembled. Here's the upper; the lowers are kind of a W shape, for lack of a...

Could be a shop ID put there by a rechromer; looks like a paint pen, which I haven't seen on factory cars. Back in the '80s, I knew a hispanic guy who referred to marijuana as "mota"...

There are 2 ports at the rear of the block - you'll see a sender in one, on the left side. There's another port on the same oil galley - on the right side - that has a plug screwed into it. If you want to retain the sender & the dash light, use the right side for the gauge; if not, just use the...

The guys I use are not the cheapest in town, but I've always been nice to them and if they fix a leaker for me - which they don't charge for - I give them $10-20 depending on the hassle. I always get good service from them a a result. My philosophy is I'd rather have things done right than worry...

A tip based on recent experience: mount the wheels on something and spin them, looking for runout radially and axially (wobble), before you mount tires. Last 2 sets I've bought, one center (aka "spider") was not square with the barrel, wobbled about 1/4"; another set had a radial runout of .065...

Can't answer the PPG base question, but Organisol was/is a basically flat in sheen and textured like about-400-grit sandpaper. You may already know that, but thought I'd mention it as so many guys get the sheen & texture incorrect.

2 of my FF1 '68 cars, if it helps...I like all the greens, though. Only those 3 for '68s.

Just there - no issues I could see.

Black organisol. It's a lacquer, hard to find, and takes a bit of talent to get right. I think the only 2 sources left since Alltrim quit are Tommy the Chryco and 8774paint1.com.

The Nova was a street car, though I ran it down the drag strip once just for grins. The Z28 was for handling, used to run the canyons in SoCal with it, but basically a street car. Dedicated drag strip - or street/strip cars that didn't have to be OEM-correct - got welded-in ties. The bolt-in...

BigLime - I think the bolt-ons I used way back then were Competition Engineering, or something like that.

My 540HP Hemi RR coupe (no subframe ties) would visibly twist when hammered, but not enough to show any cracks; without the Hemi-specific chassis gussets, it likely would have shown cracks. Typically they develop at the cowl & quarter/jamb area, from cars I've seen. Only ran DOT cheater slicks a...