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I agree with some of the prior posts, check the draw with a self ranging digital volt/amp meter. I just had to
replace an alternator on my Sequoia because of a bad diode. Older vehicles should not have any current draw
at all. Put the meter on and start pulling fuses, but first check the...
Well, Hell No they don't do all of that! WTF? Just a basic test that let's you know if it's any
good or not. You have to start somewhere. Next time I'm there, I'll ask the Kid who makes
$10../Hour your questions! I'm taking a screen shot of it now!
Take the alternator to Auto Zone and have them test it. Check the battery overnight for voltage
while being disconnected from the car. The battery might be bad. Put a 12v light bulb between
one of the battery leads and see if it lights. if it does, there still is a draw. Good luck!
The four letter words actually help alot! They give you that extra burst of energy just before
the wrench slips off and you rip the skin off of the back of your hand! Of course, changing
plugs every twenty years is a little excessive. It's all downhill from here.
I purchased an aftermarket nut for my 68 B body and it looked great, but the thread pitch was some metric B.S!
Chinesium parts. Had to buy a tap and run it through. The guy I bought it from had to do the same thing because
he just got a new shipment in and had no idea.
You can easily make your own engine harness with a few connectors and some wire. There are only
a handful of wires that actually go to the engine. No need to spend big bucks on a new harness. Sounds
like a fun project!
SIZE Doesn't matter! Excuse me, did I just say that? A 90 amp alternator will only put out what is needed at the moment.
It will not put a horrendous drag on the engine and burn the belt off. The field windings will only be "excited" enough to
get out the power that the system needs, that's why...
you can buy the brackets from AAR or Mancini. It's really worth it to make the change. When I put one of these on my 440,
the only bracket that was different was the adjuster bracket and two of the aluminum round spacers.
I don't think they refer to it as a one wire because it has an output that goes to the main lug on the starter solenoid
and a "Sense" wire that needs to be hooked to the battery. There is also an Ignition powered wire to excite the field.
There is also a wire for a ALT "dummy" light if you want...
I bought a turn signal switch assembly and the directions instructed me to change some wires
around. Oh great! I'll have to wait and see just what that does!
The Ammeter is a problem, although it may be fine if you eliminate the bulkhead connectors.
I'm not an electrical genius, so i'm just guessing, but you definitely do not want to use solid
10ga. wire! Use stranded. it's more flexible and easier to work with. I've been told that electrons
flow on...
I had to replace my fusebox because mine had too much surface rust, and the only thing that
I didn't like about the re-pop was that the male connector spades swiveled. The stock setup
is rigid. I think that might be a spot for corrosion and high resistance later?
I misunderstood. Sorry. You can find the Delphi Series 56 connectors on EBay that specify that they are made
of brass. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I can't guess, but the brass connectors are available.
You really should do the bypass trick from Mad Electric. There's a reason that it got hot! Next time
you might not be so lucky! CrackedBack on this forum also makes the headlight relay kits.