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1969 B-Body Master Cylinder End-play.

Propwash

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Hey fella's,

I have a factory disc/drum Bendix power booster, with a non-factory master mounted on my Roadrunner. I have about 30% pedal travel before the piston is engaged in the master. Does anyone know what the end-play gap should be from the booster to the master? Right now it seems i'll be having a delay before effective braking will occur, but don't want to set the adjustment nut off the booster too far to the point of the brakes locking up from heat and pressure not being released.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hey fella's,

I have a factory disc/drum Bendix power booster, with a non-factory master mounted on my Roadrunner. I have about 30% pedal travel before the piston is engaged in the master. Does anyone know what the end-play gap should be from the booster to the master? Right now it seems i'll be having a delay before effective braking will occur, but don't want to set the adjustment nut off the booster too far to the point of the brakes locking up from heat and pressure not being released.

Thanks in advance.

the pushrod should be .910 to .920 from end of push rod to booster
 
Thank you sir! I seen that in the manual for the Midland-Ross. I take it the bendix is the same then....
 
Alright, I'm hearing 1/32"-1/16" from the end of the rod to the the start of the master piston (at rest). The .910-.920 didn't work out well for me, guessing it may be a Midland Ross thing. After talking around the net, I'm getting the vibe that far enough forward where there isn't excessive brake pedal travel before the brakes actually engage, and not too much adjustment where the piston never comes to full rest because of a pre-load on the master, thus eventually locking up in front. Sound good to anyone else?
 
I hear ya Major50 and thanks for taking the time to look and the help. I see in my '69 service manual exactly where you read that under the Midland Ross Booster, but when I scroll down to the Bendix booster, they leave that FIG. out and just says "be sure power brake output rod is set to correct length." So was there some common shop knowledge about this back in the day, or is it because they list instructions/figure for the Midland, the same applies for the Bendix a few pages down?
 
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