1969 Roadrunner

[garrett1308]

Hello, while I am new to forums, I'd like to jump right in.
I'm looking into getting a 1969 roadrunner, pictures and info below, and would like to know what a fair price for the car is.
Seller's description:
"1969 Motor Trend "CAR OF THE YEAR". Original owner, mileage is authentic. Motor ran last time it was cranked up but that was quite a few years ago. Clear title, just sitting outside under the trees. Body in good shape, small crease in front drivers fender, small dent in rear fender, rust is to be expected sitting outside, floor and trunk pan rust through will need to be replaced. Matching numbers, RM vin #, owner manuals and bill of sale."

 

[moparjohnny]

what is the owner asking for it?see if you can start it before you buy it?open trunk and look at floor and the same for interior floor pans pull carpet back and look,check frame rails if you can.also see if car will go in gear if it cranks,because you need to know how much work trans and motor needs,that will = spending more money for you.and bid accordingly.check dmv to see if car and title has no issues if you can.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I'll tell you one thing that is no ordinary Road Runner. The buckets, console, sport wheel and A/C are NOT typically found on those cars. That said you shouldn't over pay for it. I'm no values expert, but find an example of a perfect real RR and back up the work required to put this one in the same good condition. Hint: Labor and materials prices aren't coming down!!

 

[WileE]

Say to the seller, "Judy Ford was Miss America in 1969 & she don't look the same, either". Seriously, though, looks like an original Ivy Green on the jambs ? Very common color, but as stated the A/C and sport wheel are not. Looks like it has good potential. Hard to say from a few pix. Maybe a few grand ?

 

[garrett1308]

Thanks for all of your input. The car is a ways out and I'd like to have a good number to run by the owner, he's asking 11,000 for it and I don't want to drive all the way just to get booted out.

To answer the questions above, the seller tried to start it, but couldn't get it. The car is a 70 thousand mile car, it's been in Texas its whole life. I'll see how bad the metal is on it. If the floors and trunk need replacing, would 5 be a fair number?

I'm new to buying cars, (I can do the work though) but do any of yall know any good ways to have him lower the price? Thanks again to everyone's help.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Seeing that a real nice 69 RR is maybe $30K or less for a good driver, $11K seems way too much for a car that will need min $10 in body work and paint and everything else. My opinion is based on a few pictures here, but I can pretty much guess at the rest of the condition and the nickel and dime things it will need from sitting out that long. Your $5K number is more like it. Personally I think he's smoking crack at $11K.

 

[garrett1308]

Thank you Meep-meep, I'll try him at 5. If any one's interested I can keep this updated, and, god willing, I can post pictures of the resto.

 

[Donny]

That car, if you get it for 5K is a steal, actually, it can and will command about 8K-11K in selling price. True on the labor and materials moving in one direction; UP! To get this car right, plan on spending 30K-40K.

 

[hunt2elk]

I'll tell you one thing that is no ordinary Road Runner. The buckets, console, sport wheel and A/C are NOT typically found on those cars. That said you shouldn't over pay for it. I'm no values expert, but find an example of a perfect real RR and back up the work required to put this one in the same good condition. Hint: Labor and materials prices aren't coming down!!

I was thinking the same thing. Make sure the VIN # starts with a RM23 to be sure it is a RR.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I'll tell you one thing that is no ordinary Road Runner. The buckets, console, sport wheel and A/C are NOT typically found on those cars.

But green exterior with tan interior is absolutely putrid. In my mind, this neutralizes the unusual optios.

 

[GOLDMYN]

Make sure it's got a fender tag!

 

[Speedbird]

BUY IT QUICK! ITLOOKS LIKE HE IS GETTING READY TO BBQ IT.

Pictures lie. If that car is as solid as it looks, you can’tgo wrong at 5k if you like an auto A/C car,. That’s your call.
Take an ice pick to check the floor pan. But it they arerusted out, that is one of the easiest things to fix.
Even in Georgia, that’s easily a 5K car.
If the motor runs, great. If not, still a good deal.
Figure even if the motor runs, you probably will have towork on it anyway.
If not, well its still got the numbers matching motor.

 

[kdtjb]

Check the #s on the radiator support, and on the left rear trunk lip. I was thinking the fender mounted turn signals were more like what they put on satellites.

 

[Moparsmitty]

Seeing that a real nice 69 RR is maybe $30K or less for a good driver, $11K seems way too much for a car that will need min $10 in body work and paint and everything else. My opinion is based on a few pictures here, but I can pretty much guess at the rest of the condition and the nickel and dime things it will need from sitting out that long. Your $5K number is more like it. Personally I think he's smoking crack at $11K.

Like Meep says, you can find nice driver quality RRs for 30-40k and drive them away. I'm not trying to talk you out of restoring this car if that's what you want to do, but go into it with your eyes open. Say you buy this car for 8-10k and put another 30k into it for the resto. Do you end up with a 40k car? Maybe, but maybe not. I wouldn't go much more than 5k for this one.

 

[Budnicks]

Meeps :iamwithstupid: is spot on, that is a pretty well optioned 69 RR, they weren't ordered like that very often, but that doesn't make it worth a ton of extra $$$$ either, IMHFO anyway... 69 RR's are great cars & I love them too, but really aren't that rare & allot of them are for sale & they sell all day long, 383ci / 727tf / 8.750" rear equipped, for in the $15k-$20k range, 4 speed cars a little more {$30k fully restored & perfect MAYBE}, running & driving, recently registered etc. with much less rust/rot... The W-I-W is so subjective... I'm on #13 68-70 RR's now... I purchased a 68 RR RM23 Hard Top 383/727/8.750, a Calif. car, "nearly" rust free, with nearly perfect original interior, questionable glass, dinged bumpers, decent chrome/stainless & grill, lights all worked, a couple gauges that worked intermittently, but had the tach in dash & Decore interior {typical Mopar issues}, LL1 Surf Turquoise & all black interior, nice rims & tires, but that ran, drove & was registered for $6k in Dec. 2005, it needed exterior body work, had a crease down the whole drivers side & was a 67k mile original car, with Original fender tag & Broadcast/Build sheet under the back seat... IMHFO $11k is way too much... Have fun & good luck on your negotiations...

 

[Basket case]

agreed, $11k way too much. check the frames,trans crossmember,floors real close. bottom of rear window,inner fenders all for rot. Looks pretty complete. Good luck and keep the updsates comming!

 

[Funship32]

I was thinking the same thing. Make sure the VIN # starts with a RM23 to be sure it is a RR.

And make sure the VIN on the dash board matches the vin on the rad cradle. Might also want to check the trunk drip rail too.

 

[Propwash]

I'll join the pack here and also say 11K is quite a bit out of line. You mentioned the trunk and floors are toast and rightfully so being it's age and it looks like the underneath is sitting on the earth. I would have him get it up in the air so you can check out the frame and torsion bar X-member. If I was to guess, I would say you're gonna not only have rust in those floors and trunk, but may possibly have some hefty corrosion issues to deal with in the frame somewhere and at the least, the corners of the torsion bar crossmember. Looks like the typical outer wheel house lips, extensions, lower quarter work will have to be done. I'd say those rockers don't look the prettiest under that trim either. Walking away paying $5K, you could feel pretty good about your purchase. Paying $11K, you got taken to the cleaners. Like some of the other fella's mentioned, those options are not going to grab you no steller premium when all said and done. "Neutralized" was a nice way of putting it, and is completely right. Now if it was a 4-speed or had an air grabber, then you could start bragging about decent options that increase value. Trying to get that A/C functionally working would probably cost you more than what percentage it would add to a selling price. 30-40K is a good estimate to restore to "Like new" condition. That's doing a majority of the work yourself. Good luck

 

[Basket case]

I gave $9k for mine in '07. new interior,rebuilt numbers matching engine. soild body except for the 1/4s. the trunk had a few small holes. even the wheel houses were solid. 4 spped post car. drivable the day I got it.

 

[Meep-Meep]

But green exterior with tan interior is absolutely putrid. In my mind, this neutralizes the unusual optios.

I agree completely that a color combo plays a huge roll in any car value. There is a saying: Resale red and no-sale green. However I seemed to have found the one ingredient that makes red a no-sale color.