1973 Dodge Coronet power steering box removal: Plus and minuses?

[fullmetaljacket]

There is so much play in my box, but in honesty, I haven't tried to tighten the slack. Never done it before. Any ideas?

In worst case scenario in removing the original power steering box and installing a new one, is there any pitfalls to expect other than the usual rusted stubborn bolts and nuts? Does the steering column have to be removed entirely or just loosened and lifted upward and out of the way?
Thank you in advance.

 

[451Mopar]

They are a pain to replace with the engine installed. I removed the steering column on the '69, only has the turn signal wires and no shift linkage because had floor shifter.
I actually held the engine in place and dropped the K-Member. I don't recommend doing that as it seemed pretty sketchy.
Try tightening up the slack first before replacing the box. Don't expect tight steering like a new car, they were never that way.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

They are a pain to replace with the engine installed. I removed the steering column on the '69, only has the turn signal wires and no shift linkage because had floor shifter.
I actually held the engine in place and dropped the K-Member. I don't recommend doing that as it seemed pretty sketchy.
Try tightening up the slack first before replacing the box. Don't expect tight steering like a new car, they were never that way.

Thank you 451.
I was afraid of that answer.
Quickly, is tightening the play done with a lock-nut adjustment up top like the manual boxes on earlier cars?
I'm not in front of the car at the moment that's why I ask.

 

[451Mopar]

Thats what I did on the Charger, loosened the lock nut and screwed in the adjuster but not tight, just to take up slack.
Not sure if what I did was right, but it helped. I was afraid to set the adjuster tighter thinking it might accelerate wear?
Hopefully someone who knows more will chime in.
When I was replacing the steering box with the K-member dropped, I dropped the new steering box and broke the aluminum return line fitting.
Best if you have a second set of hands helping. This was the convertible with a 440 and headers so no space to get the steering box out. Not sure if there is room with a small block or no headers? It almost would have been easier to pull the engine to replace the steering box.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

There is so much play in my box, but in honesty, I haven't tried to tighten the slack. Never done it before. Any ideas?

In worst case scenario in removing the original power steering box and installing a new one, is there any pitfalls to expect other than the usual rusted stubborn bolts and nuts? Does the steering column have to be removed entirely or just loosened and lifted upward and out of the way?
Thank you in advance.

I agree to try to take the slack out first, but I didn’t have much trouble installing a power steering box on a 440 with 1-5/8” headers. It’s tight, but I could slip the box in/out from underneath rotating it 1/2 way out. The bolts are tough to get too, but huge (hard to break). My bolts weren’t stuck at all (original bolts).

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Thats what I did on the Charger, loosened the lock nut and screwed in the adjuster but not tight, just to take up slack.
Not sure if what I did was right, but it helped. I was afraid to set the adjuster tighter thinking it might accelerate wear?
Hopefully someone who knows more will chime in.
When I was replacing the steering box with the K-member dropped, I dropped the new steering box and broke the aluminum return line fitting.
Best if you have a second set of hands helping. This was the convertible with a 440 and headers so no space to get the steering box out. Not sure if there is room with a small block or no headers? It almost would have been easier to pull the engine to replace the steering box.

Okay. I guess turning it in clockwise should tighten it or counterclockwise, I'll see when I get to the car.
Thank you 451 and whom ever else wants to chip in to tighten the conversation.
My car is a STOCK small block. Untouched engine compartment with factory exhausts.
Here's a flick with the new Redlines on factory steel wheels, so I guess not so STOCK on the outside. LOL.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Okay. I guess turning it in clockwise should tighten it or counterclockwise, I'll see when I get to the car.
Thank you 451 and whom ever else wants to chip in to tighten the conversation.
My car is a STOCK small block. Untouched engine compartment with factory exhausts.
Here's a flick with the new Redlines on factory steel wheels, so I guess not so STOCK on the outside. LOL.

View attachment 1902970

If I have to go under and take the box out, hopefully not, I'll drown the mounting bolts in liquid Wrench or WD40 first just to get ahead of Mr. Murphy.