You need to knock out the races in the rotors, then replace with the new ones that should have come with the bearings. You cab get genuine Timken units, set 2 and set 17, off Amazon and some other outlets. On your last picture, if you look down inside the bore, you can see the backside of the inner bearing race. If you flip the rotor over, you should be able to see the outer bearing race. I have been successful at driving those out with a ball peen hammer and a good sized drift punch that has the tip squared off, no chips. You need to work around that shoulder with the hammer/punch combo to walk it out when you come in from the backside. Putting them in is just the opposite, but it helps to use the old races to assist in driving them in. You'll know when it's bottomed out in the hub bore. There are special bearing race tools to use to drive the races in, but I've done the hammer/punch routine since the 70's and it has not failed yet. And make sure you pack the new bearings with disc brake rated wheel bearing grease. I hand pack mine. Another thing I learned from the 70's. Again there are special tools you can use to do that. One type is a unit that you use a grease gun to pack the bearings. Just have to make sure the grease is rated for disc brake wheel bearings. Have any friends working at a repair shop? Maybe they have a packer and can do it for you. If you don't already know, packing the bearings isn't just wiping grease on the outside. Its forcing grease through the rollers from one side of the bearing till it comes out between the rollers on the other side.
