Hey, I’m trying to install a new engine into my car I’ve got it to fit everywhere except for the hood. It looks like it will just barely fit if I cut out a bit of the supports in the hood but I don’t want to ruin the original hood. I was wondering if there’s anywhere I could get a reproduction that I could cut up a bit or if anyone has suggestions to get it to fit. Any help is greatly appreciated!
1974 Roadrunner hoods
- Thread starter Gavin74
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YY1
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Stinger (FL) made a real nice fiberglass one but that company is currently not a very stable business.
Sometimes active, sometimes not.
I cut that support out on mine.
Was worried it might compromise the structural integrity, but it hasn't.
Not sure why the Dodge bulge hood doesn't have that brace.
Sure does help with air cleaner clearance, especially with a higher four barrel intake.
Sometimes active, sometimes not.
I cut that support out on mine.
Was worried it might compromise the structural integrity, but it hasn't.
Not sure why the Dodge bulge hood doesn't have that brace.
Sure does help with air cleaner clearance, especially with a higher four barrel intake.
YY1
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They did have 73/74. so the tooling exists (unless something happened).
6PKRTSE
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Man, I just saw a nice 73-74 Road Runner hood at the last swap meet for $75.00. I almost bought it since it was such a good deal, but I didn't need it or ever owned that year.
70chall440
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Why doesn't the hood clear? what intake/induction/air cleaner are you using?
I’m putting a 12 valve Cummins in it. It’s pretty tight but it fits, just a bit too tall.
That's the curveball of the night.
What are you doing for springs?
Yeh, didn't even see that one coming lol.
Just the stock torsion bars for now, see how it feels and maybe upgrade later.
Should have a boo at the lower control arm bushings too.
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71Beeper
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I suggest you do the upgrade now while the engine bay is empty and there's no weight on the front end.
I assume the original engine in the car was a small block?
If so, it will definitely need stronger torsion bars as well as checking the torsion bar k-member sockets to ensure they are not weakened by rust.
The engine k-member will have the rubber isolators - change them out for the solid ones from Firm Feel.
70chall440
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Yeah I definitely didn't see what coming, good luck. I will add that just because you can do something doesn't mean you should... just saying.
Nacho-RT74
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I would make something like that on a RatRoad car, but not on a restorable one. Except If I have 4 or 5 more 73/74 RRs LOL.
EDITING… or maybe not to a RR but to a regular Satellite
EDITING… or maybe not to a RR but to a regular Satellite
Last edited:
I’ll make sure to post once it’s done, still have a lot of work to do on it.
YY1
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73/74 RR hoods were just about the last "cheap" "sport hood" but have now gone up quite a bit since I bought the one for my 7 Satellite around 2018. I paid $175 and had seen another for $300.
The last one I saw for sale was stupid priced at $750 for a hood that had 7/16" of bondo on the top of the bulge.
With all that said, if it were me putting a diesel 6 cyl in the car, I don't think I'd be bothered by cutting out that brace. It actually does make the extra room under the bulge area useable. I did it to mine and the structural integrity seems to be unchanged. I did not cut the forward brace, as my air cleaner fits inside the rear portion, but I don't think that would be an issue to cut that one too, if necessary.
The last one I saw for sale was stupid priced at $750 for a hood that had 7/16" of bondo on the top of the bulge.
With all that said, if it were me putting a diesel 6 cyl in the car, I don't think I'd be bothered by cutting out that brace. It actually does make the extra room under the bulge area useable. I did it to mine and the structural integrity seems to be unchanged. I did not cut the forward brace, as my air cleaner fits inside the rear portion, but I don't think that would be an issue to cut that one too, if necessary.
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