4 speed conversion

[Texas charger 73]

i really want to do a 4 speed conversion on my 73 small block charger... i think they just more fun to drive when its a cruiser.... currently has a reverse manual 904 with 3:55 gears and its fun and torquey but 4 speed would be a whole lot better.. i contacted Brewers and got a quote for the full conversion and im looking at around $5600... looks like my dream may just stay a dream unless i can hit the lotto or as Johnny Cash said "one piece at a time"...


who in here has done the conversion. any tips, tricks, excitements or regrets?

ill more than likely be doing all the work myself as i cant afford to have someone else do it

 

[70chall440]

I think one issue with the G3 Chargers is the shifter location. Unlike the earlier B bodies the G3 Bs used a shifter bracket the moves the shifter somewhere between the earlier A/B position (forward mounting position on the trans) and the E bodies (rear mounting position). I don't know how much of an issue it is or isn't. I am going to be building a 71 Charger which was an AT car but will be manual car but I am using a complete TKX system and shifter location is one thing I am wondering about. I have all of the stuff to do a normal conversion like you are considering to include the bracket but in my case the TKX uses a different system.

Other than that, it should be a pretty straightforward operation.

 

[Beechwood45789]

I got lucky and bought the majority of what I needed from a guy going to 5 speed. If you have all the parts to do it it isn't that hard. If it is a bucket seat console car it uses the regular e body mounting location. I think bench seat cars used the midway location. Also depending on If your motor is drilled to accept a pilot bushing you may have to cut a bit off the input shaft and use a bearing instead of a bushing

 

[Texas charger 73]

I got lucky and bought the majority of what I needed from a guy going to 5 speed. If you have all the parts to do it it isn't that hard. If it is a bucket seat console car it uses the regular e body mounting location. I think bench seat cars used the midway location. Also depending on If your motor is drilled to accept a pilot bushing you may have to cut a bit off the input shaft and use a bearing instead of a bushing

mine is a bench seat car

 

[Beechwood45789]

You'd have to use the front mounting location with the dog bone bracket and respective shift rods then

 

[Superbeemike]

I would recommend getting as much as you can from the junkyard. O/D A-833's are out there in trucks and vans. Unfortunately they have less than ideal gear ratios in 1st - 3rd, but they are cheap and give you an overdrive. You could source a used clutch and flywheel if you find one too. They were available into the 1980's so occasionally you will come across them.

I would ditch the mechanical clutch linkage and go hydraulic. I'm in the process of converting my 69' Bee. I just finished the pedals and installed the American Powertrain hydraulic throw out setup. It is absolutely worth every penny and eliminates all of the mechanical linkage. Next will be getting the motor and trans installed.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

I got my conversion kit from Brewers.
He'll make sure you get the proper transmission with the proper mounts so you can mount the shifter in the forward position so it clears the bench seat.
Along with the proper trans and shifter you'll get the 4 speed hump to modify your transmission tunnel which is also specific for a bench seat.

The transmission will be freshly rebuilt and the rest of the parts will be brand new.

I was very happy with the conversion kit from Brewers. Very complete with every nut, bolt, spring and washer to so the conversion.

The only thing they didn't provide was the clutch safety switch which a lot of guys don't use anyway.

 

[70chall440]

This brings up a good point, reference the positions, so as stated the bench seat and the bucket seat with buddy seat use the dog bone bracket which puts the shifter forward and then they used the mid length PG handle. For buckets with or without a console but without the buddy seat the shifter is in the E body or rear position.

The question is if you mounted the shifter in the front mounting position as in the 70 B bodies (and A bodies) wouldn't that put the shifter under the dash to a degree? In other words there was some reason Mopar did not mount the shifter in that front position on G3 B bodies.

 

[YY1]

I bought all but the actual transmission and bell housing here on FxBO.

Total cost- about $600

Plus $100 local for the BH and $400 local for the truck the trans was in.

Minus about $150 from parting the truck, and still have it.

This was all in about the last 5 years.

 

[padam]

I would recommend getting as much as you can from the junkyard. O/D A-833's are out there in trucks and vans. Unfortunately they have less than ideal gear ratios in 1st - 3rd, but they are cheap and give you an overdrive. You could source a used clutch and flywheel if you find one too. They were available into the 1980's so occasionally you will come across them.

I would ditch the mechanical clutch linkage and go hydraulic. I'm in the process of converting my 69' Bee. I just finished the pedals and installed the American Powertrain hydraulic throw out setup. It is absolutely worth every penny and eliminates all of the mechanical linkage. Next will be getting the motor and trans installed.

Be sure to let us know how you like the hydr. clutch linkage.
Mine is cobbled together.

 

[padam]

I saved a ton of money when I did mine.
Bought a 68 rotten Charger for about $400.
Took the drive train parts I needed and scrapped the rest.
Genius, huh.