"Well, it's a 1971 440 4bbl non-HP engine that I bought apart cheap. Has the forged crank and the journals all check out good. Pistons (stock) are also good. All clearances check out fine. I've replaced the main (fully grooved) and rod bearings and deglazed (honed) the cylinders and cleaned the block up nicely. Changed the cam bearings (two were cracked). Has the iron 4bbl manifold and an AFB of unknown size. I've opened up the galley to main oil passages, and installed MP rod bolts/nuts (I have a thing about oil to the rods). The old cam/lifters were missing so I'll need to replace them. Also came with no exhaust manifolds. The heads are 356's and I have not done anything with them yet."
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Your off to a bad start already. You will now have to compensate for the oiling system damage (I can't call it a modification because the word "modification" insinuates an improvement). Installing full grooved mains doubles the oil to the rods. How much more do you want for a street engine? Remember --- There is no free lunch. For every action (or modification) there is an equal but opposite reaction.
Hopefully a high pressure spring in a new stock pump, and running a heavier oil than would otherwise be necessary, will compensate for the new oiling inadequacy, but to be safe, you should probably buy a high volume pump and buy/install a high pressure spring.
Unfortunately this will cost you at least 10+ HP plus the cost of parts, in order to maintain reliability, while compensating for the change.
I don't intend to be mean, as it's not really your fault. The Internet and magazines are sometimes rife with bad information that is presented as "better", or suggesting modifications for street engines that only apply to ultra high RPM race engines.
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"It's going into a 1964 4-door Fury. I will mate it to a later year big block 727 that is built with extra clutchs, 4 pinion sets, and a Transgo shift kit. The rear is presently the original splined shaft 8-3/4". Not yet sure of the gear ratio, but it is not posi.
I'm presently unemployed so I have to keep expenses to a minimum. Thanks!"
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Again, all these things are totally unnecessary for a non-, full race, street engine, and more importantly, cost power (and money). There goes another 10+ HP or so.
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"Well, I'm looking for right around 9:1~9.5:1."
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Planning a build around some arbitrary compression ratio is wrong and amateur. Cylinder pressure is the only important factor, and before you can determine what parts or compression ratio you need, you HAVE to define to yourself exactly what you are trying to accomplish.
In your case it fairly easy as you are working with the components you have available. You have a heavy car (I'm guessing 4200-4300 lbs.), I'm guessing a stock converter and 3.23 gears, you live in California (91 octane). I've been through Chico a couple of times (Gorgeous area by the way), and I believe you have cooler temperatures with mid humidity percentages (allows for higher cylinder pressure, unless your goal is to be able to drive through any area/climate).
Since money is tight, I'm assuming that fuel millage is important to you, as well as dependability. And I'm guessing that your future plans don't include substantial modifications to turn it into a "strip" car.
You are using stock Pistons/heads/valves, with stock valvetrain, so 6000+ RPM is not going to be necessary (or even possible without substantial investment and port work), So that leaves you with the options of designing for low speed/RPM torque, or maximum mid range (or some compromise in between). If I'm wrong on any of this please correct me.
The first thing you need to determine is what you are working with, which means you will have to determine your stock compression ratio.
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"My measuring stuff is kinda beat, but I'm seeing the pistons (stock) about .060" down the hole (maybe a tad less)."
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Sorry but that answer/excuse doesn't hold water! Anyone can use even a feeler gage and straight edge and determine the compression height, and for decades I used a broken piece of window glass and a drug store syringe to measure head CC's. If you don't know how to do it, ask, but anything other than a precision answer is just lazy.
You need to know the head CC's and piston compression height in order to figure out what your potential compression ratio is, so that you can determine what cam you can use to achieve your goals. Cam selection for your intended vehicle use is the absolute most important choice. You then set your compression ratio through head gasket choice, or milling in order to achieve your target cylinder pressure.
If quench can be achieved while meeting your compression requirements, that's just a lucky bonus, but highly doubtful (remember, you are working with what you have, not custom parts). Quench is highly overrated as it only allows a slightly higher cylinder pressure, and then only if the head chambers are smoothed out, with all edges smoothly radius ed. Even then the benefits are marginal, with plenty of downsides. Why do you think that all the manufacturers went away from it on the big bore engines nearly 50 years ago? Only the recent OEM use of small bores, and aluminum heads has re-introduced it, and only then because of emissions standards. --- The new Hemi engine failed emission tests (and was almost abandoned) without the quench areas, but on non-emission max HP race engines, the quench areas are usually cut away!
Sorry but I will continue this either tonight, or tomorrow, as time permits. At least it gives you something to chew on. Post back if you can further define your goals, as that will help in specific recommendations.
