67 belverdere 1/4 panel bodywork ?

[blazer 2010]

I was wondering if making a template the shape of the side would be a good idea for doing body work and pounding out some dents of my quarter panel and welding in new pieces.There is some good dents along this section and I would like to try and get it so it turns out uniform along the side.

 

[The not so tall man]

Like what this tool is used for?
http://www.eastwood.com/adjustable-profile-gauges-5-10-15-inch.html

 

[blazer 2010]

That's what I was trying to find online but when you type in profile templates all I got was stuff for resume templates and stuff to do with microsoft

 

[gtxno1]

I am just finishing my 67 Gtx quarters that would have been a great tool to have but just remember the car was not perfect to begin with I have gone over and checked different areas on the car with a straight edge and from the factory there are some flaws the best you can do is to get as close as possible this tool will make life a little easier I tried making my own but that profile changes more than you think so check and recheck and check again

 

[blazer 2010]

I was thinking to mark off the 1/4,s in 10 inch, or so, increments on both sides and use the good side as my donor template and just work my way up and hopefully it will come out good.

 

[gdrill]

What I did was set my car on a level spot in my shop. Then I took a 4 foot level and stood it upright against the quarter. When the top bubble was perfectly centered I measured in from the inner edge of the level to the top body line on the quarter. I made a mark and wrote the number right there. I did this about every 6" from the door jam right to the back. I had to do this as my driver side was a total mess but the pass side was still good. This was to get the outward curve of the "hip" fairly correct down the length of the car. I tried a template but it really didn't work because the hip has such a varied outward curve the whole way along. This is a 1966 Coronet, but the general idea is there.

 

[1967coronet]

just my 2cents, drop the fuel tank if your have not yet, pull the fill tube, cut the fill hole out of that qt leaving aprox 3/8" of metal all around it. rebuild the inner panel with a new piece , redo your spot welds to the trunk floor to re hook it , now cut the rest of that mess up to the upper body line about 1/4" under that line , take it {the cut} forward to the vertical line up with the rear of the wheel arch and then back to about a inch ahead of the tail lamp pocket. buy a sheet of flat body panel steel from keystone ect. barrow or use a metal break to crimp your lower body line along the full patch you cut.
under lap that piece with the top cut and hold in place with clamps , snap a chalk line to get your lower body line marked out for the metal break. trim the piece into place while clamped in.
tack it in a few spots and then cut and build the wheel arch piece.

short of finding a good used qt to patch with I think you need to remove all that damage. once you get to dolly and hammering that its going to get all oil canning on your , prob is already from prev repair.
if you work with whats there you will have a 1/4 inch or more of tiger hair & filler on that panel to ever get it straight.

I know it sucks but in the end your will have a better panel to work with and a lot less filler, take your time and don't be worried about a screw up or two , the panel sheets are pretty cheap, just don't weld it home until your sure.

 

[blazer 2010]

is this what your talking about for cutting

 

[1967coronet]

yes sir, but right on down to the bottom were it meets the inner panel , then start be replacing that inner 1st , the build your large panel , cut in the gas filler after all the rest is tacked in place, I know, you will have to bow the large panel to follow the body curve.

Mabey its just the pic you posted but the upper looks pretty ruff above what you have removed already, the more clean smooth steel you have there to work with the better your panel fill job will be.

Best way for sure would be to locate a decent qt but those are like hens teeth.
When you stitch that panel in take your time and move around with your welds , let it cool, don't warp it,
seal the back side with seam sealer once your done to keep it dry.

chaulk line the new panel once its clamped in place just for reference when placing in the metal brake. use a barrel ect laid on its side to get your upper outward bow started on the new panel.

 

[440ronnie67]

fun metal working, used a jack on the inside to work out a dent. that area is tough to work out because of the compound radius. I probably would have saved a lot of time and frustration just replacing the entire panel, but where's the fun in that.. looking good!