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68 b body brake booster differences

68gtx

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trying to put power brakes on my 68 gtx, have 4 wheel drum, also converting front brakes to disc from dru, can get brake , our local parts tore lists two boosters ,one for disc and1 for drum, part numbers are different and disc booster is no longer available. could i use the drum one? i cant see why there would be a difference as long as the master cylinders bolt up the same
 
i'd think the drum/drum would work. its a midland-ross. there is availiable a double diaphragm aftermarket that mimics the hemi/discs booster, but it sticks pretty far out from the firewall. factory type power brakes will need a different support plate and the toggle linkage. the aftermarket hemi/disc unit has the linkage but i don't know if it will fit the manual brake bracket. i went thru this a few years back on a conversion with my drum brake '69 r/t. i'd do the power conversion before i did the disc conversion. i like the power drums on my r/t much better than the manual disc on my 65 coronet. there are some good shoes in the aftermarket that will enhance a power drum set-up.
 
trying to put power brakes on my 68 gtx, have 4 wheel drum, also converting front brakes to disc from dru, can get brake , our local parts tore lists two boosters ,one for disc and1 for drum, part numbers are different and disc booster is no longer available. could i use the drum one? i cant see why there would be a difference as long as the master cylinders bolt up the same

I did a bunch of research and spent some time speaking with Wilwood, SSBC as well as several other folks that have dabbled with this subject in the past when it came time to do a power drum to power disc conversion on my 69' Roadrunner. I don't want to see anyone make the mistake that I almost made when putting all the parts together for a power disc set up

A power booster from a drum set up will not work correctly for a power disc set up. The power assist ratio between the drum and disc boosters are entirely different. Sure you can bolt on a 1 1/8" bore Power Disc master cylinder onto a power drum booster but the exponential of assist vs. pedal travel will still be incorrect.

The Power Drum booster is a Midland-Ross. The Power disc booster is a Bendix line and yes they are very hard to find. You can find some luck with finding a core on places like this or ebay and have them rebuilt, but that can be pretty pricey. I was able to find one online refurbished, only after 8 hours of hunting. I got pretty lucky and happened to get their last one. The part was = A-1 CARDONE Part # 503603.

For guys like me that want to convert power drum to power disc, obviously it can be quite a task to put all the pieces together. The main problem is most power disc conversion kits out there being Right Stuff, Summit, and others are designed for a non power to power disc conversion. The supplied power booster in their kits have bracketing to work with the original set up. The OEM power brake car being either drum or disc have different set up under the dash that doesn't work with the aftermarket kits.

If you have non power drum, you're almost better off going with an aftermarket kit. Trying to convert to factory power disc will require the correct set up under the dash (including the linkage), trying to find a booster, correct distribution block and then the spindle's, calipers and rotors. It will probably come out more expensive and will definitely be more time consuming than going with an aftermarket kit, but I guess it all depends what your main goal is...An OEM setup and better braking or just better braking


Here's a pic of a factory Power Disc booster (on left) and power drum (right) for 69's and 68's:

r4.jpg



Hope it helps...Best of luck on your brake's what ever way you go.
 
I converted my 66 belvedere to power disk brakes and it cost about $500. 66-70 use the same parts. I used all mopar parts and it stops really well. The 67-69 b-body bendix duel diaphragm power booster is hard to find but it also came on c-body of these same years. The only difference is the push rod has to shorted to fit the b-body. Prior brakes rebuilt mine and shorted the rod for about $105. I had about $200 in the booster by the time I was done. But I wanted the factory look. The plate between the booster and the firewall is also different. The hole for the rod is a little lower. As far as the disk brakes I used a-body spindles, rebuilt calipers which are cheap at the parts store and a a-body proportioning valve. If you need the part # for the calipers and brake lines I can get these. It really isn't a big deal to convert a b-body to power disk brakes you just have to do a little home work.

http://www.priorreman.com/
 
Propwash, as you may have read with my own brake swap last year, I've got a booster and linkage from Master Power brakes and when the shop did the install they tossed the pedal linkage that was in my car when I bought it. I believe my car was originally drum (not sure if manual or power) and the previous owner had swapped in power disc fronts from a 70's E body. I pulled that out and sold it (Doh!) and put in the MP brake setup. I don't have the extra pedal toggle linkage, which makes me think that if I did, it would multiply my power assist and I would be better off.

Do you agree and where o where can I find that extra toggle linkage part?
Attached is the photo someone posted of what I think I need from another thread. MP brakes says their kit should work without it...The first photo attached is what came with the MP brakes kit. The 2nd and 3rd photos are from another FBBO member and include the extra toggle linkage that is supposed to multiply power assist under the dash at the pedal.

On comparison here though, I may be all good, because the angled linkage on my MP brakes linkage looks like it's attached the same as those shown in the factory photos. I was thrown off a little at first because the factory photos don't show the pedal or it mounted to the firewall, but now it looks about right - I think...unless my linkage should actually be connected at the bottom hole instead of the middle hole as shown...
 

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From the looks of it I'm thinking you're pretty well off where you are 68'. It's hard to say but i'm almost sure that MP was not trying to duplicate any chrysler multiplier linkage dimentions when they designed theirs.

A very knowledgable and very nice older gentleman at "Theramman", named Wayne also helped answer a bunch of my questions. http://www.theramman.com/ This guy really knows his stuff when it comes to brakes and went well out of his way to help settle my nerves about the in's and out's of brakes and their hardware...He also sells the parts as well.
 
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