Alternator question

[Randall Raines]

Hi Guys !

My alternator is now a bit tired I think because when I pull on all the electrical devices the engine shuts off...

I'm looking into Tuff Stuff alternators 100 amp but I'm a bit a newbee here and I'm seeing choices like One Wire capable or not, or 1 V groove VS 2 V groove and I'm wondering what is the importance of this ?

Could anyone explain me what's the difference between 1 wire capable and stock wiring ?

Also my alternator is equipped with 2 V groove on it but really I'm using just one. Makes me think a 1 V groove is enough for my application, is it correct ?

Thanks !

 

[pnora]

Hi Guys !

My alternator is now a bit tired I think because when I pull on all the electrical devices the engine shuts off...

I'm looking into Tuff Stuff alternators 100 amp but I'm a bit a newbee here and I'm seeing choices like One Wire capable or not, or 1 V groove VS 2 V groove and I'm wondering what is the importance of this ?

Could anyone explain me what's the difference between 1 wire capable and stock wiring ?

Also my alternator is equipped with 2 V groove on it but really I'm using just one. Makes me think a 1 V groove is enough for my application, is it correct ?

Thanks !

If your car dies and you have to jump it it could be alternator or regulator. If the car starts up without a jump I would suspect grounds, wiring, bulkhead or ammeter connections.

 

[Randall Raines]

If your car dies and you have to jump it it could be alternator or regulator. If the car starts up without a jump I would suspect grounds, wiring, bulkhead or ammeter connections.

Indeed if I jump it it the engine run on again. I brought it to a local garage and they told me also alterntor should be change. But if I put 1 wire one is it ok for me or do I have to consider some conversion kit I don't know ?

 

[pnora]

Indeed if I jump it it the engine run on again. I brought it to a local garage and they told me also alterntor should be change. But if I put 1 wire one is it ok for me or do I have to consider some conversion kit I don't know ?

You could have a bad alternator. Just because its not charging it does not mean it is the alternator. Does your ammeter show discharge when running? You can go with a one wire that should be a direct bolt on. Just remember once you step up to a higher out put alternator the rest of the marginal system gets taxed.

 

[451Mopar]

The 2 V-Belt pulley was used on cars with A/C. If not running the A/C compressor, 1 V-Belt is fine.
A 1 wire alternator has the regulator built into the alternator. Regular type uses an external regulator.
With a 100 Amp alternator, run a 4-AWG wire from the alternator output directly to the battery, not through the stock bulkhead wiring.

 

[QOTHL]

One way to test the alternator is with a volt meter at the alternator or the battery, see what it's putting out.
I bought a square back Tuff Stuff as a back up, should work great. I had my original rebuilt by an expert but that was not cheap.
Powermaster is really good.
2 groove is for cars with AC and they have to put out more to run that accessory.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

With a 100 Amp alternator, run a 4-AWG wire from the alternator output directly to the battery, not through the stock bulkhead wiring.

Damn... not again

This is not necesarily true!

If this was true, then you can't light up your glove box light with your battery throught a 18 gauge wire!

AMPERES ARE NOT PUSHED IN by the power source either being the BATT nor the ALT

 

[Shorthorse]

When you say " all the electrical devices", what devices are you talking about? Is your car mostly stock electrically and do you have a lot of add-on's presently? Also, what if any electrical devices do you anticipate adding in the future?

 

[451Mopar]

Damn... not again

This is not necesarily true!

If this was true, then you can't light up your glove box light with your battery throught a 18 gauge wire!

AMPERES ARE NOT PUSHED IN by the power source either being the BATT nor the ALT

Sorry for the mis-understanding. Just one method, of several, to take the battery recharge load away from the bulkhead connector, and also use the battery as a filter. Plus I also run my headlights, fans, and other high current draw accessories through relays that get power from the battery to further reduce the current(s) going through the bulkhead connector.

 

[1toolguy]

I installed a TuffStuff a few years ago, I wouldn't recommend them:
1) I didn't want chrome but it's all they had and they didn't know when "as-cast" versions would be available.
2) The chrome started peeling after about three months.
3) The cheesy "external" regulator on-wire burned up after 6 months and they informed me that they didn't have any in stock and had no idea when they would come in. This afterthought regulator also caused valve cover clearance issues.
4) I ran it with a factory style regulators but it kept burning them up so I swapped back to the factory 63 amp alternator.

I have since made some upgrades (fuel injection, electric fuel pump, upgraded ignition, etc.) and was running on the edge of what the 63 amp alternator could handle. so, I recently swapped to the Powermaster 95 amp one wire unit. It's all new (I'm pretty sure the TuffStuff was built on an old factory core) and the regulator is actually internal. Because of my TuffStuff experience I called Powermaster and the person I spoke to informed me that they typically have a six-month supply of parts on hand at all times and offer an out of warranty rebuild service and only charge for parts.

 

[MoparLeo]

You need to know that you don't have a problem with something else before you throw a new alternator at it.
Unless you have added a lot of extra amp draws on the system, it should not die, especially if it has the proper sized battery and it is fully charged. Is there more to the story than you are telling us ??

 

[Rusty 72]

I have run 3 Tuff Stuff Alts on various projects and had good luck with them. I use the one wire and go directly to the battery.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I installed a TuffStuff a few years ago, I wouldn't recommend them:
1) I didn't want chrome but it's all they had and they didn't know when "as-cast" versions would be available.
2) The chrome started peeling after about three months.
3) The cheesy "external" regulator on-wire burned up after 6 months and they informed me that they didn't have any in stock and had no idea when they would come in. This afterthought regulator also caused valve cover clearance issues.
4) I ran it with a factory style regulators but it kept burning them up so I swapped back to the factory 63 amp alternator.

I have since made some upgrades (fuel injection, electric fuel pump, upgraded ignition, etc.) and was running on the edge of what the 63 amp alternator could handle. so, I recently swapped to the Powermaster 95 amp one wire unit. It's all new (I'm pretty sure the TuffStuff was built on an old factory core) and the regulator is actually internal. Because of my TuffStuff experience I called Powermaster and the person I spoke to informed me that they typically have a six-month supply of parts on hand at all times and offer an out of warranty rebuild service and only charge for parts.

Yeap, is true initially they got some issues, but it seems not anymore!