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Ammeter and Voltage Meter - Not bypassing

67convertible

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I am finishing up my drive train ('57 coronet) and i want to install a voltmeter while keeping the ammeter. i just want to verify that all i need to do is plug into an ignition (on) wire after the fuse block and perhaps wire in a 1 amp fuse. Plus, a good ground. Correct?

thx in advance
 
Until I bypassed my ammeter last spring, I ran both. I just plugged into the spade on the out side of the fuse box.

P.S.
I still feel bad about that and would like to have the ammeter operating as it was intended.
 
Thank you Ranger 16. i will go out to the car tonight and search for the spade on the outside of the fuse box. i did not know there was one available.
 
Yeah, mine ('69 Road Runner) has one on each end. I initially had it on the other end (input side) so it showed voltage even with the key off.
 
While you're at it, it's a good time to check & clean all your connections involved with your ammeter especially the bulkhead terminal connections.
 
While you're at it, it's a good time to check & clean all your connections involved with your ammeter especially the bulkhead terminal connections.
great idea! now on the check list before i crank up the drive train... seems the list is getting longer,, not shorter. lol!
 
great idea! now on the check list before i crank up the drive train... seems the list is getting longer,, not shorter. lol!
You'll find over the years that this particular list is NEVER over. :)
 
Just a thought but there are a few places like redline gauges that can convert your factory ammeter to a voltmeter. No dead useless gauge in the cluster plus no of the issues of the ammeter. I had it done on my Duster.
 
Just a thought but there are a few places like redline gauges that can convert your factory ammeter to a voltmeter. No dead useless gauge in the cluster plus no of the issues of the ammeter. I had it done on my Duster.
If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost to have this done?
 
Amp-meters can be a major fire hazard. I disconnect mine.
 
I've heard this before and that's part of the reason that I bypassed mine, but I never understood the how & why's of it. Can anyone explain it?
 
Lots of amps, thru a cheesy gauge of small pieces.
 
Ive had this question for quite some time. I understand that amp gauges are dicey at best and people get them converted to volt meters. Doesnt the same major electric load go through similiar size wires or when they get converted some kind of jumper wire is installed?
 
Ive had this question for quite some time. I understand that amp gauges are dicey at best and people get them converted to volt meters. Doesnt the same major electric load go through similiar size wires or when they get converted some kind of jumper wire is installed?

Both ends are dis-connected from the gauge. Attach ends together and insulate. It's one solid wire, at that point.
 
So when they do a volt meter swap out the pretty much connect the 2 wires together to complete the circuit and then just patch in a volt meter via a jumper wire then?
 
I've heard this before and that's part of the reason that I bypassed mine, but I never understood the how & why's of it. Can anyone explain it?
I don't know whether there were problems when these cars were relatively new but age has a lot to do with it. Original gauges and harnesses pushing 50-60 years old with brittle wires and connections that have corroded or become loose over time, contribute to failures. Adding new electrical components such as fans, pumps and high power sound systems without considering the capacity of the original gauge is nearsighted. The same can be said about grounds and bulkhead terminals which can be a major source of electrical issues. Good for those that understand this and take precautions but lets face it, lots of us are decent mechanics but shy away from anything electrical. Keep connections clean and tight. Inspect harnesses for cracked or heat bubbled insulation or worse yet, burnt wires. Be safe.
 
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