Ammeter problem

[mjb765]

Got a problem on my 69 Bee with my ammeter bouncing almost full sweep in both directions...especially when using the directionals. Checked charging system and it's steady at 14V. Already replaced the ammeter and the voltage regulator....any other ideas?

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Flickering ammeter usually due intermittent connections in the circuit or a flaky regulator... since you change reg & ammeter,Check for bad grounds or lack of a body to engine ground cable... dash connections...look for an electrical draw on the system somewhere when using signals...


http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

http://home.roadrunner.com/~raffica/electrical.htm

 

[mjb765]

Flickering ammeter usually due intermittent connections in the circuit or a flaky regulator... since you change reg & ammeter,Check for bad grounds or lack of a body to engine ground cable... dash connections...



http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

I just found the allpar page also....going to check the firewall connector tomorrow....Thanks

 

[440roadrunner]

IF IF you have factory style wiring, there are several things that can cause this

Read this excellent article on the how and why of these problems:

(Whether or not you perform this bypass, the article and simplified diagram down the page explains some of the problems)

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Some things that can cause are:

inded flakey old style (mechanical relay) regulator

bad connection in the field circuit, or brushes barely making contact/ greasy/ worn out

Problems within the alternator itself

Bad connections in the bulkhead connector

Loose/ corroded connections at the ammeter

Same thing, other connectors or fuse panel in the system

AND in rare cases (It happens!!!) the factory "welded splice" can fail. Refer to the MAD article. This is a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire, taped up in the under-dash harness.

 

[bandit]

Not sure if you changed your wiring or not but I believe the ammeter has to be hooked up to the main power lead coming in that goes straight to the starter relay and/or battery+ and not just any + wire. Not saying you did but mentioning just in case. It's important where the meter is put inline with the current coming in. Current should go through the meter first then to everything else to measure the draw. Putting it later in the chain of wiring will give bad readings from what I understand.

 

[tpodwdog]

run a jumper wire from the negative battery cable to the rad support.....make sure theres a ground strap from engine block to fire wall....make sure the dash has a good ground also. bare metal....sand the paint and crud off to make a good ground connection .

 

[mjb765]

Thanks for all the ideas.....as far as the ground goes, I checked all the grounds that have been mentioned. Hopefully going to get time to look at that firewall connector today or tomorrow.

 

[cr8crshr]

Or????? Why not just eliminate that weak link in the electrical system and go with the MAD electric upgrade and conversion. Makes a world of difference...

 

[Moparsmitty]

IF IF you have factory style wiring, there are several things that can cause this

Read this excellent article on the how and why of these problems:

(Whether or not you perform this bypass, the article and simplified diagram down the page explains some of the problems)

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Some things that can cause are:

inded flakey old style (mechanical relay) regulator

bad connection in the field circuit, or brushes barely making contact/ greasy/ worn out

Problems within the alternator itself

Bad connections in the bulkhead connector

Loose/ corroded connections at the ammeter

Same thing, other connectors or fuse panel in the system

AND in rare cases (It happens!!!) the factory "welded splice" can fail. Refer to the MAD article. This is a factory welded splice in the black ammeter wire, taped up in the under-dash harness.

You might save yourself a lot of time and trouble and just go ahead and do the wiring bypass shown on the MAD link. It's not very difficult and it makes your wiring a lot safer. Also a voltmeter will tell you a lot more about the condition of your charging system than a ammeter does.

 

[1948 santa]

Something I do to every Mopar with an ammeter is to solder the studs to the brass straps on the back of the ammeter,theyr'e only pressed in from the factory, remedies one spot for high resistence.