Any tips for the swap

[Mark1972]

So I've read some posts on swaps, but wanted to ask for any tips or thoughts on anything I should be thinking about or getting ready for, that maybe some people have come across when making the swap of an RB in to an original small block B body. The 440 and 727 should be ready in a couple of weeks, and the 318/904 will be coming out of my 1970 Satellite soon after I get it home from winter storage. I've picked up motor mounts, a new radiator, and have a shop nearby to shorten and balance the driveshaft. With my Doug's headers, will I need a mini starter or will a full size starter work? It seems the mini starter is almost a given, but I wanted to ask. The heads and intake are aluminum, so I'm sticking with my original torsion bars for now. As I have 10" drums all around, I am looking at upgrading my brakes as well. Though this may happen a little later. The 727 is heading over to the tranny shop soon for a tear down, inspection, torque converter, and shift kit. Being up here in Canada, with what's going on in the world, ordering parts can take far longer. I'm just trying to get ahead of the game. Any thoughts are much appreciated.

 

[70chall440]

Looks like you have it pretty covered, you are doing what many of us did frequently "back in the day". I would say, get to the brakes soon rather than later, its going to be heavier and faster with that 440.

 

[Demonic]

Think about doing the discs sooner. It used to be easy when 73-76 A body stuff was easy to find. The F-M-J stuff is an option also. I didn't like the third hard stop when I had 10" drums. Heck, if you get set up for the brake swap, you can indtall the 440 and k frame from the bottom.

 

[yella71]

You will need the brackets for the motor mounts that bolt to the block. do the brakes later when the engine swap is done and all the bugs are worked out. One thing ive learned is do one big job at a time. a mini starter s great but a stock one will work fine. Make sure your front end parts are in good shape (bushings and ball joints) your torsion bars will be fine with an aluminum top end. You will find there will be all sort of little bits and pieces that you need. front pullys and brackets belts hoses , you will need to mod the engine wiring harness too. Carb linkage and kick down linkage are different. depending on your intake your throttle cable may be too short. Fuel line to the carb....Trans cooler lines....You should think about an aluminum water pump and housing also, that's another 25 lbs or so

 

[QuickBpBp]

Probably need shifter linkage too...

 

[67MPRFAN]

Everything Yella71 said I did the swap last summer in my 67 belvedere. What I did because my throttle cable was to short was use a small strip of metal to make up the difference in length, also hood clearance maybe a issue depending on intake and carb choice...btw my car stops fine with drum brakes on the front save that upgrade for later like others have mentioned .. good luck

 

[Wietse]

How are you going to do this?
Loosen the drive train and lift the body up, or remove the engine/transmission through the engine bay?
If you are going to work through the engine bay, get a balancer device for the engine lift, this will give you the oppertunity to give the engine that slight angle which will ease installation against the tranny.

 

[dvw]

I assuming you swapped the 904 yoke to a 727?
Doug

 

[Mark1972]

Thanks guys. So to cover a few points. I'm actually looking at 11" drums instead of front discs. I haven't made a final decision but there is a local guy who has everything to go 11" drums all around if I want, and he has an original magazine where 10" drums were tested for stopping distance, against 11" drums, against a front disc car. The 11" drums stopped way shorter and the cars were all similar size with big blocks. The whole suspension on the car was installed new from PST up front, and Mopar GTX leafs out back. Regarding fuel line, should I be running 3/8" from the tank to carb instead of the 5/16" line I currently have? I ran all the lines myself. I've gotten pretty good with the bender and flare tool. I have the full set of mounts for the swap. All 4 pieces. I forgot to mention I did buy an aluminum water pump and housing, and also grabbed a 6 quart pan and windage tray from 440Source. I will be going through the engine bay , and have an intake mounted lifting plate, as well as an adjustable levelling device for changing the angle of the motor/tranny. The machine shop is charging $250 to machine, re-weld, and balance the driveshaft. Seemed fair. Some places charging over $500. Linkage has me pretty well freaked out, lol. I'll get everything installed, and then work from that point.

 

[myk r sanchez]

Looks like you have it pretty covered, you are doing what many of us did frequently "back in the day". I would say, get to the brakes soon rather than later, its going to be heavier and faster with that 440.

When I first bought my charger it had the 440/727 setup and the stock 10.5" drum brakes; that was not a fun combination and now that I look back on it, it was downright dangerous.

OP you've gone this far, might as well go all the way and get your chassis to support the motor...

 

[dvw]

Buy a brand new shaft from PST. you'll save $
https://pstds.com/product-category/all-steel-shafts/
Doug

 

[Slap Stick]

If you're doing brakes you may as well go to discs with quality pads.
Consider aftermarket as well.
Have you considered a serpentine belt setup with electric fans? You can always get it running and consider it later or leave it alone for a stock appearance.
Good luck and enjoy! Keep us posted!

 

[yella71]

Bouchillon performance makes a very nice kick down cable kit. Its basically a factory mopar set up like was used on jeeps and trucks before everything went electronic. I have used it and would recommend it if you don't have the right OE linkage.