Autorust torsion mount repair

[killi6]

Hey, guys.

I got the left-hand (driver's) torsion bar mount repair piece from autorust. I have a '74 Satellite. Problem is... the torsion bar doesn't actually mount on that repair piece, the piece that the torsion bar attaches to is spot welded to the back of the piece that the autorust repair would cover. I don't know if any of you have run into this or not, but my question is this... do I take the mount off and weld it back on the repair or do I cut the repair piece out so the mount doesn't move? I'd just take the mount out and weld it back on, but I'm worried that maybe that extra 1/8 inch piece of metal will make the torsion bar too short or is that not a concern?

Thanks for your time.

B...

 

[Kernel Sanders]

I just want to understand a little clearer the issue you have and the repair you need to make....

Is it the ISO torsion cross member that is need of repair? Or is the mounting flange (that the torsion cross member bolts to with the ISO bushings) thats welded to the back of the transmission cross member your needing to repair?

If it is that bolting flange, you can remove it to patch the transmission cross member then just weld the mounting flange back in the original location... even if its an 1/8" further back it wont matter as the end of the torsion bar goes back into the mount way far enough.

Might as well replace the ISO bushings (I had steel ones turned for me at the local machine shop) at the same time and you can do what I did to that cross member as well, i boxed it in for some extra torsional strength.

 

[747mopar]

Pics would be helpful.

 

[killi6]

Pics would be helpful.

yeah, I know, I don't have them on this computer. I'll get them shortly... I think Kernel Sanders covered it, though... it's not the mounting flange that's all rusted out, it's the piece that the transmission mount/etc is attached to which the mounting flange is welded on to.

 

[killi6]

Here's the pic... with some notes...

 

[WP29440SE]

either way , obviously, you need the bracket that the T bar mount bolts to.

is the repair piece a cap? or is it designed to replace that section?

I would cut the bracket off, grind it smooth on the cross member, slip the cap over , weld it on and then re-install the bracket.

when you are ready to weld the bracket back on, bolt it up to the T bar mount and bolt up the other side , get in place , tack weld it , then take it apart again and finish weld it. im sure you already know this LOL

 

[killi6]

either way , obviously, you need the bracket that the T bar mount bolts to.

is the repair piece a cap? or is it designed to replace that section?

I would cut the bracket off, grind it smooth on the cross member, slip the cap over , weld it on and then re-install the bracket.

when you are ready to weld the bracket back on, bolt it up to the T bar mount and bolt up the other side , get in place , tack weld it , then take it apart again and finish weld it. im sure you already know this LOL

Don't assume that I already know anything. yeah, the repair piece is a cap meant to slide on. That's two votes for removing the bracket and welding it back on, no votes for cutting into the repair piece. That makes it anonymous. :icon_thumleft: Thanks, guys! I'm going to cut some more of the floor out to get at everything better... take off the right torsion bar too while I'm at it and take the torsion crossmember out so I can replace those doughnut bushings too while I'm at it. When it isn't so cold outside, anyway. (7 degrees right now, -12 with the windchill)

 

[WP29440SE]

Don't assume that I already know anything.

lol

If it is spot welded , just drill out the welds.

 

[flypaper]

the rust you show sucks in that area
i would be removing/drilling the whole floor out
and replacing the whole x member with a donar one
from another car and not using a cap.
it all drills apart
moparmark might have one
thats my vote


that cap is just a band aid covering up the real problem
and that is a area of stress when you drive the thing.
it might work, but boy is she gonna look ugly.

 

[killi6]

the rust you show sucks in that area

Yeah, you should see the left side frame rail going from there to the radiator. :sad10:

I'll check moparmark, never heard of them. Passenger side is fine. Well. Looks fine. Yeah, the floor is being replaced, that's just all I've cut out so far.

 

[flypaper]

moparmarks is a member here
he might have what you need
or you might be able to find something in the classifieds here
you need parts from a 73 or 74 b body car
71 and 72 are different

your floor pan is already half hogged out
i would be concentrating on removing/drilling/extracting out the rest of it.
and then you will see how easy it is to replace that whole x member in one shot.
the pan will come out by drilling out all the spot welds and separating the metal with a hammer and chisel. go slow and take your time and you should be able to finess it apart without damaging what you want to save.

 

[747mopar]

X2, I wouldn't just cap it I'd remove all of the junk metal and replace everything that is really crusty "don't want questionable metal in that area for sure". Moparmarks is a good guy and has access to allot of good metal. Good Luck

 

[wedge69]

the rust you show sucks in that area
i would be removing/drilling the whole floor out
and replacing the whole x member with a donar one
from another car and not using a cap.
It all drills apart
moparmark might have one
thats my vote


that cap is just a band aid covering up the real problem
and that is a area of stress when you drive the thing.
It might work, but boy is she gonna look ugly.

x2 !!!!!!!!!
The cap is still covering AND mounted to Weak rusted out cross member.