Axle bearing question for 741 case

[thequickster]

Hello gentleman, I’m in the process of adding a new gear ratio to my 67 Coronet and I pulled the axles out and see that the axle bearings are junk. I found a set on summit racing and was wondering if anyone could tell me if these would work on my car . It has the 8 3/4 with the 741 case. This set says it will fit on a 742 case but doesn’t mention the 741. I’m very new to working on axles and I know this may be a dumb question. I would assume the axle bearing would have nothing to do with the case # , but as I have learned working on my Mopar, everything is unique and different from Fords and Chevys, which is part of the fun.

Once again thanks for all the wisdom

-TheQuickster

 

[WesleyK]

Yeah axle bearings are the same on all 8 3/4 rear ends. Those are what are referd to as green bearings. They are sealed and don’t require the adjuster so you can leave it off. They’re work great and are what most guys use.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Do NOT buy those! They are garbage!!!

Call Cass aka Dr Diff, and he can set you up with the good green bearings or the factory style Timkens.

 

[dadsbee]

Do it right and do it once.. with OEM.

 

[idrivemopar]

Second the OEM Timken style tapered bearings. I had green bearings and most of the grease squeezed out of them in less than 1K miles, thankfully I caught before they went dry. The adjustment on tapered bearings isn't difficult and doesn't take that much time to complete.

 

[dadsbee]

Reply 414 onward... Covers obtaining from Dr Diff.. removal, install and set up for end play.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,121731.400.html

 

[RJRENTON]

Quickster,
It is difficult to see from the pix but it appesrs to be the "Green" style of bearing assembly. For my my money and my car, which has the 4.10:1 ratio Dana 60 axle assembly which uses the TIMKEN tapered roller bearings.
There are many proponents of the green bearings. These are just flat roller bearings that DO NOT have any axially load capabilities. WHY DON'T YOU USE the Mopar bearing assembly which have both axial AND radial load capabilities and were factory installed. They have served for many years and are adjustable for axle end play, whereas the green bearings are not. Shop the internet or eBay for bearings. If you have disassembled the axles, just get the cup (bearing race) and cone (roller assembly) and the shrink on retainer and follow the FSM to install and adjust the assembly. Google Rich Ehrenberg's web site for price and availability and call him for advice.
I'm sure that others claim that Dr. DIFF, is the definitive source for all things relating to the rear axle but for my money, the old addage appllies: "you pay your money and take your choice". Your brother-in-law's next door nrighbor's cousin's best buddy (who has no knowledge of bearing design and application) is not best source of information....about your car......do your own due dilligance.
This is just my opinion.
Bob Renton

 

[dadsbee]

DR Diff sells real, made in the USA, Timkens.. a no brainer just to order everything needed from him. I couldn't find them cheaper ANYwhere else and I have commercial accounts.

 

[5.7 hemi]

He’s got both style of bearings. And just to put this out there, Timkens are not the best for axial loads. We all know that the Ferd 9 inch is used in everything, and they are not a Timken style bearing. Yes, they are great, work good and last a long time. I did was just giving the OP a place to get either style and talk with someone that knows their stuff, not try to sell ya on one or the other.

 

[khryslerkid]

Dr. Diff!

 

[thequickster]

Thank you for all the education. I’m going to do some research and try to read up on all my choices before I make an order. I’m leaning towards the oem style as I don’t want to do a lot of adjustments, as I am learning all this as I go.

Thanks
- TheQuickster

 

[69Bee]

Quickster,
It is difficult to see from the pix but it appesrs to be the "Green" style of bearing assembly. For my my money and my car, which has the 4.10:1 ratio Dana 60 axle assembly which uses the TIMKEN tapered roller bearings.
There are many proponents of the green bearings. These are just flat roller bearings that DO NOT have any axially load capabilities. WHY DON'T YOU USE the Mopar bearing assembly which have both axial AND radial load capabilities and were factory installed. They have served for many years and are adjustable for axle end play, whereas the green bearings are not. Shop the internet or eBay for bearings. If you have disassembled the axles, just get the cup (bearing race) and cone (roller assembly) and the shrink on retainer and follow the FSM to install and adjust the assembly. Google Rich Ehrenberg's web site for price and availability and call him for advice.
I'm sure that others claim that Dr. DIFF, is the definitive source for all things relating to the rear axle but for my money, the old addage appllies: "you pay your money and take your choice". Your brother-in-law's next door nrighbor's cousin's best buddy (who has no knowledge of bearing design and application) is not best source of information....about your car......do your own due dilligance.
This is just my opinion.
Bob Renton

Not sure why you think these bearings are cylindrical, but ALL Green Axle Bearing packages are BALL bearings that support the axle radially and axially. They work just as well as tapered bearings without the adjustment requirement. I installed these, and never had any issues with them, and they survived the autobahn for 2 years. I searched, and saw what looked like Chinese cylindrical bearings, but are not to be confused with Green Axle Bearings. Btw, not all Timken bearings are made in the USA. They are: ("Timken" bearings are currently made in Mexico, Poland, Italy, and possily others as well as the US. Timken claims their QC is the same regardless of of the country of origin which will be stamped on the specific bearing.) I was also informed by a local bearing supplier (Bearing Belt & Chain) that Timken bearings are also made in China.

 

[RJRENTON]

69bee,
If the green bearings are ball bearings, they DO NOT have the axial load capabilities UNLESS they are a DUPLEX ANGULAR CONTACT bearing that has a high contact angle of the rolling element and stationary races. Most duplex angular contact bearings have the contact angle set during manufacture at approximately 25 degrees, by grinding the race at that angle and the rolling element separator is usually brass.
To compare tapered roller bearings vs duplex angular contact bearings or single race ball bearings of the same size WITH OUT comparing their published design characteristics (radial load, axial load and operating RPM) is not correct. Who says "they work just as well as tapered roller besrings"?
I glad you had success with your installation. Country of manufacture not withstanding, its the alloy of the material, the hardness and heat treatment the bearing receives is the biggest influence as to the bearings ability to neet or exceed the published L-10 forcasted life expectancy, and operating within design criteria.
As a side bar, what is the green bearing part number?
For my money and piece of mind, i'll stick with what Mopar designed and installed. I really don't care what Dr. DIFF sells. I'll buy my bearings ftom Motion Industries by brand name and number.
This bearing issue is similar to that which is the best : coolant, radiator, spark plugs, oil, wax and which beer is best......it depends on the individual's preference.
Bob Renton

 

[69Bee]

A single ball bearing (angular or deep) Does have axial support. A deep single ball bearing will have fair axial support in two directions, while an angular contact ball bearing will have good axial support in one direction. Since two fixed bearing assemblies on the axles will have the angular support in opposite directions (as do tapered bearings), they will have axial support in both directions. While I will give you that a double angular bearing has better axial support, a single row is just as good as a tapered bearing. Where a tapered bearing shines is in the radial support. Due to the actual contact surface area, a tapered bearing will out perform. While I can't re-find the width spec, but I recall it was about 1.2". I would have to assume it is a double row bearing, and with the intended use as an axle bearing, it would be an angular support bearing. I could go so far as to contact "Bearing Tech" as they are the current manufacturer of the Green Bearings since acquiring the Green Bearing Company in 2003, but I think our conversations agree, and are merely opinionated assumptions on the designs used. Attached is a chart for bearing configurations for anyone to look at.

Bearing Loads: https://www.kaydonbearings.com/typesACX.htm

 

[RJRENTON]

69bee,
A regular single row ball bearing has both alxial and radial load capabilities; although the axial load capabilities is less than a tapered roller bearing of an equilivant size and operating confitions. A single row ball bearing of the Conrad design (maximum load with a filling slot, to accomodate one or two additional balls and a non metallic seperator) has greater load capabilities than a regular design. A duplex angular contact bearing has far greater axial load capability in the thrust direction; a duplex angular contact bearing with thrust faces installed in opposite direction (either out to out or in to in) are very capable of both axial and radial load capabilities within design parameters. Tapered roller bearings are a simpler as only one bearing (cup and cone) required, which is likely why Mopar selected them. Perhaps the "best" compromise is a spherical roller bearing design, which offers both high radial and high axial load capabilities (within design parameters). There are several manufacturers of bearings, NTN, TIMKEN, SKF, RBC, Torrington, Toyo,to name a few, whose products are excellent when applied according to their design parameters.
As I've stated b4, i'll stay with Timken tapered roller bearings for my car for both front wheel bearings and rear axles and the Dana 60 rear.
I would reference Timken's web site as well as SKF site or NTN's site for their differents offerings and suggested applications.
Bob Renton

 

[threewood]

Keep it simple and replace with oem bearings and races. And replace the inner and outer axle seals as well while it's apart.