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backing plates faux finish

rich hourigan

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Happy New Year guys, While helping a friend restore a 69 Barracuda and trying to stay as correct as we are able we want to paint the drum backing plates and we would like to simulate the correct finish . i understand that they were some kind of phosphate plated, my research so far has shown me an industrial greenish/ grayish color, i dont really know how to describe the color.. i guess my question is, has anyone been able to faux paint these drums to look like the the phosphate from the factory , if so please include type and brand of paint and technique used...thanks for any advice given..Rich
 
The finish is called zinc phosphate or parkerizing. Eastwood sells paint that looks like it. Parkerizing is fairly easy if you want to do it.
 
The finish is called zinc phosphate or parkerizing. Eastwood sells paint that looks like it. Parkerizing is fairly easy if you want to do it.
How long does it last? Every backing plate that I've pulled off looked like it was bare...and some were pretty rusty.
 
How long does it last? Every backing plate that I've pulled off looked like it was bare...and some were pretty rusty.
On a daily driven car not crazy long. On a show pony it it’ll last for decades. The finish is something the military used to protect metal because it holds oil. It’s also used on firearms. Parkerizing solution is purchased from gunsmith supply. I do some Chevy stuff and hood hinges and latches have that finish. If I WD40 or Boeshield them once a year they look great. Car doesn’t see weather either.
 
High heat BBQ/wood stove paint is what I used and was told it was damn close to the black phosphate that was originally done...
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Tremclad.. Flat Black.. High Heat Enamel.. Fast Dry...650C/1200F for special heat resistant uses such as BBQ's and Wood stoves.

Product code on can is 2930522, but I also noticed that Tremclad is now owned by Rust-olem.. so I'd bet Rustolem Flat BBQ paint is the same. Goes on glossy, but then drys dull and flat. Drys to the touch in about 5 minutes.
 
thanks dadsbee, much appreciated... while im picking your brain heres another dilema that maybe you can help me with.. my buddy asked me to help get his 440 ready for paint, its complete and assembled and has been sitting long enough in plastic that it has flash rusted... how do you recommend that i remove all that rust so that i can epoxy prime and paint this motor, i was thinking that a few hours with a wire wheel would take care of most of it but there are so many nooks and crannys that i dont think i can get perfectly clean in those tough to reach places...any suggestions besides good ol hard work.. Happy New Year to ya ...Rich
 
How I'd be doing it... but of course I already have all the block off plates made to do so. Oh and tell him never to wrap an engine in plastic again! Hope the rust is only on the outside..
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It's just the gun out of my small cheap PA/Harbour freight cabinet... a hose and a bucket of crushed glass or what ever you can find for media. You can also get one of these for minimal dollars on sale...
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i think he has one but i think hes worried about sealing the motor up so no abrasive finds its way into the motor
 
Only takes an hour to block things off.. or throw the manifolds on and just tape up the head pipe flange. Paint lid/pill bottle for the distributor hole and a bead of RTV and a plate over the intake or even duct tape. Set of spark plugs in the holes and have at'r.
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