Blue voltage regulator

[pjm8047]

Has anyone every used the blue mopar performance voltage regulator for street use? Says it has a constant voltage of 13.5v that seems like a normal voltage to run all the time. Not sure why it says race use only.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-PERF...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

It can easily overcharge the battery in constant use. Its hard to explain but it is constantly at 13.5 output. Not variable depending on demand if that makes sense?

 

[pjm8047]

I thought as long as voltage doesn’t exceed 15 V its ok? Im a battery service driver for aaa and i see voltages above 13.5 constantly all the time at idle but not above 15 volts

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Kind of hard to explain. It is a constant output not regulated. Kind of like full fielding the alternater but not fully. Drag racers use them to get a fast charge back in the batteries. Let me see if I can find a explaination.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Pretty good here


"Constant output" is a misleading name for this regulator. All ordinary voltage regulators regulate (i.e., keep constant) the line voltage in the running automobile. There's no such thing as a magical regulator that can overcome Ohm's Law -- by which I mean that when the alternator is producing less than 13.5v because engine RPMs are low and electrical demands are high, the regulator cannot magically cause the line voltage to be 13.5v. In fact, the "constant output" regulator is nothing more or less than a regular regulator with its mounting bracket plastic-coated to insulate it from ground. This has the effect of full-fielding the alternator so line voltage goes way up with engine revs. This can give you a stronger spark for a very short time before things start getting damaged, so it really, really is a race-only item (and kind of a dumb one). You're far better off with a regular regulator. The MP resto regulator looks nifty, but the quality of the electronics is poor (same with MP ignition boxes!). Call up Ray at Old Car Parts Northwest for a NOS genuine Mopar regulator.

 

[pjm8047]

Thanks for the explanation. Best mopar forum out there

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I believe Slant Six dan posted that. He is a wealth of knowledge. If you need a regulator I have some NORS ones available.

 

[66Satellite47]

Pretty good here


"Constant output" is a misleading name for this regulator. All ordinary voltage regulators regulate (i.e., keep constant) the line voltage in the running automobile. There's no such thing as a magical regulator that can overcome Ohm's Law -- by which I mean that when the alternator is producing less than 13.5v because engine RPMs are low and electrical demands are high, the regulator cannot magically cause the line voltage to be 13.5v. In fact, the "constant output" regulator is nothing more or less than a regular regulator with its mounting bracket plastic-coated to insulate it from ground. This has the effect of full-fielding the alternator so line voltage goes way up with engine revs. This can give you a stronger spark for a very short time before things start getting damaged, so it really, really is a race-only item (and kind of a dumb one). You're far better off with a regular regulator. The MP resto regulator looks nifty, but the quality of the electronics is poor (same with MP ignition boxes!). Call up Ray at Old Car Parts Northwest for a NOS genuine Mopar regulator.

You are much more an expert than I am, but your explanation is a bit off. The OEM VR needs to be grounded to function, not grounded results in no charge, from my personal experience. The Blue race VR I have on my Satellite puts out a bit over 14V all the time. Seems OK on the street, but I don't drive long distances, or for a real long time.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I quoted Dan on that one. I actually have a nos one curious if it is case insulated.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Back in the 80’s my brother had a ‘70 Challenger. His battery kept going dead, and he took it to a shop that specialized in electrical work. They gave up. Just messing around, I sanded the area behind the regulator and emery clothed the bolts... It stopped draining the battery. The main issue is the FSM schematics don’t show body grounds in a lot of places. I guess they assume you know they have to be there to complete the circuit. The electronic regulator definitely needs to see a ground.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Your best friend for grounds.

 

[71Beeper]

I had one on my 1976 Volare Road runner - no issues.
The only major accessory I had was an electric fuel pump - and oh, I had the battery in the trunk.
By passed the amp gauge.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

@mattax You have the info on these?

 

[66Satellite47]

Back in the 80’s my brother had a ‘70 Challenger. His battery kept going dead, and he took it to a shop that specialized in electrical work. They gave up. Just messing around, I sanded the area behind the regulator and emery clothed the bolts... It stopped draining the battery. The main issue is the FSM schematics don’t show body grounds in a lot of places. I guess they assume you know they have to be there to complete the circuit. The electronic regulator definitely needs to see a ground.

That was my experience with my 1 year old '70 Barracuda. It had an intermittent no charge problem. Eventually figured out that the VR mounting screw did not provide adequate grounding. I sanded the case & firewall and fixed the problem. Later added a separate ground wire for insurance.

 

[pjm8047]

Ive added a ground strap from the vr and the backside of the engine block

 

[66Satellite47]

Ive added a ground strap from the vr and the backside of the engine block

My original experience with grounding VR was with an OEM stock VR. I did sand the blue VR too. My Satellite has welded tied subframes, battery in the trunk, really good ground there.

 

[RJRENTON]

Pretty good here


"Constant output" is a misleading name for this regulator. All ordinary voltage regulators regulate (i.e., keep constant) the line voltage in the running automobile. There's no such thing as a magical regulator that can overcome Ohm's Law -- by which I mean that when the alternator is producing less than 13.5v because engine RPMs are low and electrical demands are high, the regulator cannot magically cause the line voltage to be 13.5v. In fact, the "constant output" regulator is nothing more or less than a regular regulator with its mounting bracket plastic-coated to insulate it from ground. This has the effect of full-fielding the alternator so line voltage goes way up with engine revs. This can give you a stronger spark for a very short time before things start getting damaged, so it really, really is a race-only item (and kind of a dumb one). You're far better off with a regular regulator. The MP resto regulator looks nifty, but the quality of the electronics is poor (same with MP ignition boxes!). Call up Ray at Old Car Parts Northwest for a NOS genuine Mopar regulator.

Ray,
The differences is the lack of the ambient temperature compensation components and a fixed internal voltage divider network (rather than one that responds to variable load) that keeps the internal field voltage switching transistor "ON" to provide the constant field voltage to the alternator, regardless of load on the electrical system. The "normal" voltage regulator switches the field voltage transistor on and off to achieve a nominal voltage of 14.5 volts (at the battery). The regulator MUST be grounded at all times. Just a few additional talking points......
BOB RENTON