Body bushings installation help

[Leo]

I have not seenany tips or tricks to Removing Bohy bushings and installingnew ones.The instructions i got from Energy suspension are general. Please help!!! Please see attached pic of what I bought .

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Uhhhhh.... I'm confused. Is this a muscle-car era Charger? Aren't the bodies welded to the frame without any body bushings? Maybe for a newer Charger?

 

[1967coronet440]

Uhhhhh.... I'm confused. Is this a muscle-car era Charger? Aren't the bodies welded to the frame without any body bushings? Maybe for a newer Charger?

Part number says 73-78 charger. Not quite sure where these would even go

 

[mopar73dge]

For our 73 and 74 b bodies, The factory manual tells you to completely raise the stub frame for replacement. I disconnected the strut rods, spray the weld nuts first the day before, drill a small hole above the weld nut area in the rear frame, insert some high quality rust bolt disolver,loosened one side at a time. I took a large pry bar and opened up the frame to remove the old bushings and steel hardware. Pulled out the old stuff, cleaned repainted and rust proofed the rusty area. The front bushings are easier and may not be so rusty. Installed the new ploy and shims, some oil for the weld nut and tightened the bolts to a make a slight bulge in the new bushing about 200- to 250 ft. lbs. make sure they are as tight as you can go by hand to make sure. I used the original bolts and thick washers 5hrs to do this in the driveway. Recheck the bolts after a short drive.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

For our 73 and 74 b bodies, The factory manual tells you to completely raise the stub frame for replacement. I disconnected the strut rods, spray the weld nuts first the day before, drill a small hole above the weld nut area in the rear frame, insert some high quality rust bolt disolver,loosened one side at a time. I took a large pry bar and opened up the frame to remove the old bushings and steel hardware. Pulled out the old stuff, cleaned repainted and rust proofed the rusty area. The front bushings are easier and may not be so rusty. Installed the new ploy and shims, some oil for the weld nut and tightened the bolts to a make a slight bulge in the new bushing about 200- to 250 ft. lbs. make sure they are as tight as you can go by hand to make sure. I used the original bolts and thick washers 5hrs to do this in the driveway. Recheck the bolts after a short drive.

Wow, cool. So the '73+ have frame bushings? I had a couple Trans Ams that I replaced these bushings in. Mopar73dge's ideas sounds like a good one & I like the idea of drilling a small hole to get the rust-buster to the back side of the threads (never tried that).

On my T/A's (no Challengers, sorry) on the front I seem to remember hooking the engine to a cherry picker to take the load off after I had the car on jack stands. Unbolted them & you can get enough "slop" to get the old ones out & the new ones in. I guess you could loosen (1/2 way) a whole section (e.g. front frame) to get more "slop" before you actually start replacing them.

 

[drobertson]

Wow, cool. So the '73+ have frame bushings? I had a couple Trans Ams that I replaced these bushings in. Mopar73dge's ideas sounds like a good one & I like the idea of drilling a small hole to get the rust-buster to the back side of the threads (never tried that).

On my T/A's (no Challengers, sorry) on the front I seem to remember hooking the engine to a cherry picker to take the load off after I had the car on jack stands. Unbolted them & you can get enough "slop" to get the old ones out & the new ones in. I guess you could loosen (1/2 way) a whole section (e.g. front frame) to get more "slop" before you actually start replacing them.

Not really frame bushing, but K frame bushings, torsion bar crossmember bushings, and rear leaf/axle isolation bushings.