AMX364
Well-Known Member
Brake Sticky maybe
Let’s start off on the master cylinders. Single or dual reservoir master cylinders. Single works to all 4 drum brakes. Pressures can be changed by different size wheel cylinders, very old school. I know that it exists, but do not remember any of how to tweak the sizes for different results. Should you, NO instead use the aftermarket adjustable valve to lower the pressure to the rears. Single master cylinders were on older cars, the problem is when it fails ALL the brakes fail, except the parking brake. Which has about 20 % braking by my opinion, if it is set up correctly. Sometimes it can give some warning that there is a problem, if it feels “funny” pay attention. In this regard the dual reservoir is much safer, most of the times only one side will fail at a time. You can still stop, will be scary depending on traffic.
Dual master cylinders if both reservoirs are bout the same sizes, then drum brakes. If one reservoir is bigger then the larger size goes to disc brakes. Location of reservoir does NOT have any bearing on front reservoir, it can be large or small. Larger size always goes to the Disc brakes.
Can you convert a drum master to work with discs? Yes you can, should you? Maybe, the issue is will the reservoir push enough volume. How do you tell, try it and see if it works. Drum dual master cylinders have a residual check valve to maintain a small pressure on the wheel cylinders, to have a faster take-up response. This valve is located where the brake line connects to the master cylinder. Take a small self tapping screw, long enough to grip it with pliers and use the pliers to remove the inside line fitting. The valve and spring is under here, very small. Remove the one going to the front brakes. Although I have done this and got away with it, it is not recommended. Why did I try this? I had a car with a newish master cylinder and could not buy a master cylinder for disc brakes and manual brakes. I removed the manual brake setup and swapped in the power booster setup and sold the car that way. For me the manual brakes worked even if the motor was not running, still have that car. It is always better to go with a new master cylinder that is suitable for your car and if power braking or manual brakes.
Brake fluid- dot 3, 4 or 5. IMHO for a car that will not be driven very much AND has new brake parts, I do like the dot 5 fluid, other then the cost. However there is a lot of more current information on the fluids and more research should be done before making many fluid changes, other then flushing out the system.
You might have to replace all your brake lines. The single master cylinder uses a multi line connection about 36 inches from the master cylinder. On mine and several others the lines could not be taken off cleanly, rusted on. The line going to the rear brakes is where the adjustable valve should be installed. The line going to the disc brakes(larger size) could run to a 3 way connector. One line to the master cylinder, one line to left and last line to right. The right side line CAN be made with the engine in the car, but is much easier if it is out. The front disc brakes run at full pressure all the time and the rear drums at a reduced pressure.
If you do replace brake lines by yourself, it is not hard to do. You will need a decent flaring tool, but not the top of the line tools. I normally use a very old Snap-On flaring tool. I use the steel brake tubing in a roll from like Eastwood with the fittings. I do not recommend using SS tubing, because it is hard to flare and hard to prevent leaking. It might be good for a pretty if you can buy it pre-bent for your car, but not for custom work. If you are making your own lines start with the hardest line, passenger side along the firewall. Try to use your old lines as a template; the gentle curve across the firewall can take up some extra length. The drivers side has many tight bends, but it really is the easiest to make. The line going to the rear is long, but mostly straight line. On the master cylinders sometimes Mopar will use a 9/16-18 fitting, if not it will be 9/16-20 which is a very common fitting. A assortment of fittings for the master cylinder is useful to have.
Imperial 3/16 bending tool 364-FH-03 about 42 dollars on EBay, this tool is really neat for working brake lines. Clean tight bends, no other bender that I have came anywhere close to this. Read the reviews on what others say about it.
Clamps, Plain AN742-D3 Aluminum http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an742.php
41 cents per clamp, looks very close to what the factory used. I did cheat and pop riveted them in, looks clean. Will be a bear to remove. The rubber mounted line clamps do not live long near oil.
Let’s start off on the master cylinders. Single or dual reservoir master cylinders. Single works to all 4 drum brakes. Pressures can be changed by different size wheel cylinders, very old school. I know that it exists, but do not remember any of how to tweak the sizes for different results. Should you, NO instead use the aftermarket adjustable valve to lower the pressure to the rears. Single master cylinders were on older cars, the problem is when it fails ALL the brakes fail, except the parking brake. Which has about 20 % braking by my opinion, if it is set up correctly. Sometimes it can give some warning that there is a problem, if it feels “funny” pay attention. In this regard the dual reservoir is much safer, most of the times only one side will fail at a time. You can still stop, will be scary depending on traffic.
Dual master cylinders if both reservoirs are bout the same sizes, then drum brakes. If one reservoir is bigger then the larger size goes to disc brakes. Location of reservoir does NOT have any bearing on front reservoir, it can be large or small. Larger size always goes to the Disc brakes.
Can you convert a drum master to work with discs? Yes you can, should you? Maybe, the issue is will the reservoir push enough volume. How do you tell, try it and see if it works. Drum dual master cylinders have a residual check valve to maintain a small pressure on the wheel cylinders, to have a faster take-up response. This valve is located where the brake line connects to the master cylinder. Take a small self tapping screw, long enough to grip it with pliers and use the pliers to remove the inside line fitting. The valve and spring is under here, very small. Remove the one going to the front brakes. Although I have done this and got away with it, it is not recommended. Why did I try this? I had a car with a newish master cylinder and could not buy a master cylinder for disc brakes and manual brakes. I removed the manual brake setup and swapped in the power booster setup and sold the car that way. For me the manual brakes worked even if the motor was not running, still have that car. It is always better to go with a new master cylinder that is suitable for your car and if power braking or manual brakes.
Brake fluid- dot 3, 4 or 5. IMHO for a car that will not be driven very much AND has new brake parts, I do like the dot 5 fluid, other then the cost. However there is a lot of more current information on the fluids and more research should be done before making many fluid changes, other then flushing out the system.
You might have to replace all your brake lines. The single master cylinder uses a multi line connection about 36 inches from the master cylinder. On mine and several others the lines could not be taken off cleanly, rusted on. The line going to the rear brakes is where the adjustable valve should be installed. The line going to the disc brakes(larger size) could run to a 3 way connector. One line to the master cylinder, one line to left and last line to right. The right side line CAN be made with the engine in the car, but is much easier if it is out. The front disc brakes run at full pressure all the time and the rear drums at a reduced pressure.
If you do replace brake lines by yourself, it is not hard to do. You will need a decent flaring tool, but not the top of the line tools. I normally use a very old Snap-On flaring tool. I use the steel brake tubing in a roll from like Eastwood with the fittings. I do not recommend using SS tubing, because it is hard to flare and hard to prevent leaking. It might be good for a pretty if you can buy it pre-bent for your car, but not for custom work. If you are making your own lines start with the hardest line, passenger side along the firewall. Try to use your old lines as a template; the gentle curve across the firewall can take up some extra length. The drivers side has many tight bends, but it really is the easiest to make. The line going to the rear is long, but mostly straight line. On the master cylinders sometimes Mopar will use a 9/16-18 fitting, if not it will be 9/16-20 which is a very common fitting. A assortment of fittings for the master cylinder is useful to have.
Imperial 3/16 bending tool 364-FH-03 about 42 dollars on EBay, this tool is really neat for working brake lines. Clean tight bends, no other bender that I have came anywhere close to this. Read the reviews on what others say about it.
Clamps, Plain AN742-D3 Aluminum http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an742.php
41 cents per clamp, looks very close to what the factory used. I did cheat and pop riveted them in, looks clean. Will be a bear to remove. The rubber mounted line clamps do not live long near oil.
