brakes dont stop good

[mdbrt440]

I have a 66 sport fury with a 383 in it all original and i have put all new drum brakes on it
and have switched it to a dual master set up and still don;t stop good at all.
Anyone have this problem before?
Any help would be great.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Compared to what? I wouldn't expect viper like braking from it.
What shoes did you use? Could be the friction material. Could try a different brand

 

[miller]

You put on the right type dual master? There's differences. Should be for drum/drum...not disc/drum.

 

[ga66mopar]

"Brakes don't stop good" pretty much describes every car I ever drove with four wheel drum brakes. The last car I owned with drum brakes was a 1970 duster and I didn't feel comfortable with it's stopping power and a 66 fury is a heavy car. We are all used to today's modern braking systems and a four wheel drum system is a antiquated system. I had a friend with a 66 c-body with the same problem and seems like he converted to a disc system he got off of a new yorker.

 

[mmissile]

Power drum brakes would throw you thru the windshield. I had several old mopars with them. Them worked better than the later disc stuff[muscle era]....just very touchy. My early factory disc brake cars weren't much for stopping a high MPH car either.

 

[silversedan]

when you say all new brakes did that include replacing the wheel cylinders?

 

[Matrix2]

A properly set up 4 wheel drum brake system is fine for most every day driving. Not for high performance driving or wet. Check to be sure you have residual valves for both front and back (may be incorporated into the master cylinder), check the master cylinder and wheel cylinder bore sizes; there also should be NO proportioning or metering valves. Are you able to lock up all 4 wheels? Is the pedal hard?

 

[shorty64]

...in addition to all the above, there's all the nitpicky "brake job" details:
- new or re-cut drums?
- either case, surface finish appropriate?
- surface cleaned to remove any preservative coating, handling residue?
- drum IDs measured to ensure not "oversize", ie not matched for the lining arcs?
- proper lining edge codes (friction level) for your vehicle? just cuz it fits or is listed doesn't mean it's correct (the stories I could tell). lots of misinformation on just this issue!
- organic, inorganic, semi-met, ceramic - what type of linings? each requires sufficient bedding-in, ie burnishing, to become effective. one of the wys aftermarket companies save cost is to do incomplete post processing baking to fully cure the linings. That let's them be more competitive in the marketplace and leave the customer to cure the linings.
- primary and secondary shoes in correct position?
- correct shoe-to-drum clearance?
- does the pedal seem firm and not go down very far upon application?
- if not, then perhaps: air in system, too much lining to drum clearance, corroded/sticking wheel cylinders, etc.

just some thoughts based on 34+ yrs in the braking business.

 

[Propwash]

Need a little more info mdbrt......

When you mention you're not braking well is it because:

-Mushy pedal?
-Pedal is hard, but still not braking well?
-Pedal traveling all the way to the floor, with not much braking?
-Braking not occurring till near end of pedal swing?
-Need to pump the pedal for the brakes to work?

 

[mdbrt440]

When the car is in park or neutral the pedal feels good. and then you put it in gear and it feels like it drops.
Yes it seems like you have to push the pedal almost to the floor and then if you pump it will seem to slow the
car down.

 

[mopar 3 B]

no mention here as to if you have power brakes or not. Sounds like a low vacuum problem at the brake booster if you have a booster.

 

[Dennis H]

www.musclecarbrakes.com

Car stops good for me using these.