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Collection of Parts for 392 Swap

PistolGrip6

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Location
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Haven’t updated my 392 swap into a ‘69 coronet progress in a while.

I hope some of this information is somewhat informative for folks looking to swap a 392 Hemi with a TR6060 into their car. I have only included the cost of the parts gathered to help people with making the decision to start this endeavour. It hasn’t been cheap!

I’m up in Ontario, Canada so collecting parts has been expensive and time consuming due to the fact almost everything is coming up from the states. I have a US postal address account in Lewiston/Niagara Falls, New York. I have had a lot of stuff sent to which has saved me paying customs and brokerage fees. But not the tax at Canadian border which is extra.

It all started when I found a 392 Hemi paired with TR6060 out of a wrecked 2016 Challenger with 16,000 Kms (10,000 Miles) on Facebook marketplace. Guy wanted $16k, I offered $13k CDN in person and he took it.

I have since started acquiring the following:

- QA1 Front Coil Over Suspension Conversion with Tubular K Frame, Gen 3 motor mounts and Wilwood Disc Brakes. Just under $9k CDN with tax at border

- I ordered the MTX-68D-CHG Dakota Digital Ralley gauge cluster 6 months ago and it came in last week. I’m quite impressed with it. Due to using the 392 & TR6060 out of a 2016 Challenger I opted for the GPS Speedometer Module and the GPS Booster Antenna. Cost just over $3k CDN from Hot Nights Hot Rods in Caledon.

- My order from Holley back in December consisted of : Premium Mid Engine Mount, Mid Sump VVT Oil Pan, Drive by Wire Pedal, Frostbite 4 Core Rad, VVT&SVR Wire Harness, 350 LPH EFI Fuel Tank Module all came within two weeks. I waited 4 months due to back order for the Terminator X Max Part# 550-1425 and the Frostbite Fan/Shroud Package. This all came to over $10k CDN plus the tax at the border.

- TTI 1-3/4 Headers Part# TTI61RSA-RC25 ordered by and shipped to Nation Moparts in Beaverton. $1919 CDN all in

- Wilwood Master Brake Cylinder & proportional valves. Brake booster, hydraulic clutch pedal with billet reservoir. $2300 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

-American Autowire Complete Wiring Harness. $1900 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

- USCT Trans Tunnel Perimeter Frame, TR6060 Trans Mount, Subframe Connectors and Torque Boxes. $2500 CDN plus tax at the border.

- 2020 Challenger Complete Center Console with manual shift boot. $400 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper Motor. $450 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper linkage pivot arm and clips. $178 CDN from National Moparts

- AMD drivers side floor pan $475 CDN


I have been putting in 70 hour work weeks to pay for this stuff. I’m not a rich person, just willing to put in the OT hours as a tool and die maker. Been buying the parts as the money is coming in. No debt taken on.
I do need the following parts to complete this swap and upgrade.

-Direct mount gear shifter conversion
(Looking for suggestions)

-Classic Auto Air complete A/C system

-Fat Mat sound control (Dynamat substitute)

-Ralley dash pads (probably pick them up at the Mopar Nationals in Carlisle this summer), have dash skeleton and top pad already.

- Pistol Grip Shifter Conversion (probably get from Brewers or Mr Norms)

- Drive shaft (custom made)

- New Brake and Fuel lines
(Is 1/2 inch fuel line too much for stock 392?)

- Custom Stainless Steel exhaust, going with 2.5 inch and reusing set of awesome Flowmaster mufflers and exhaust tips from previous setup. (Should I go X pipe or H pipe? Or just go straight back like I had previously with the old 383?)

- Cold Air intake

- Battery relocation kit and extra positive wire.

Have I missed anything or overlooked anything?


Installation Progress:

I am doing all the work myself with help from my father and the use of his shop and lift. As well as help from YouTube and the internet including this forum. I bought a 120v welder off Facebook marketplace to complete the welding portion.

I have the new floor, subframe connectors and torque boxes already welded in place with some touch ups to do. I know some of it looks a bit crappy. I am confident in saying I know they’re strong welds. I did double up in some places. And I did it short bursts to not overheat areas. I will be grinding the excess off. (I have included pics please don’t criticize my welding.)

Next thing is completing the cutting of the floor, fire wall and center support frame to mock up and weld in the trans tunnel perimeter frame.

Then everything else…

I plan on taking some time off work and going at this project full force in the next few months. I’ve set a goal of having it completed and on the road for Moparfest in Newhamburg, Ontario middle of this August.

Lofty goal I know.

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Nice project. I'm with you on the welds. Many of mine aren't perfect but they'll do just fine. Besides, overhead welding is tough and add on thin floor to thicker SFC's.
 
Nice swap project & a lot of great parts

damn some Canadian cash spent on that

have fun that's what it's all about
good luck
 
It’s cool that you have a job that you are able to get some overtime hours. You may have set a lofty goal for yourself, but you have the drive and ambition to work the overtime I’m sure you will get the project completed. Keep posting updates.
 
Haven’t updated my 392 swap into a ‘69 coronet progress in a while.

I hope some of this information is somewhat informative for folks looking to swap a 392 Hemi with a TR6060 into their car. I have only included the cost of the parts gathered to help people with making the decision to start this endeavour. It hasn’t been cheap!

I’m up in Ontario, Canada so collecting parts has been expensive and time consuming due to the fact almost everything is coming up from the states. I have a US postal address account in Lewiston/Niagara Falls, New York. I have had a lot of stuff sent to which has saved me paying customs and brokerage fees. But not the tax at Canadian border which is extra.

It all started when I found a 392 Hemi paired with TR6060 out of a wrecked 2016 Challenger with 16,000 Kms (10,000 Miles) on Facebook marketplace. Guy wanted $16k, I offered $13k CDN in person and he took it.

I have since started acquiring the following:

- QA1 Front Coil Over Suspension Conversion with Tubular K Frame, Gen 3 motor mounts and Wilwood Disc Brakes. Just under $9k CDN with tax at border

- I ordered the MTX-68D-CHG Dakota Digital Ralley gauge cluster 6 months ago and it came in last week. I’m quite impressed with it. Due to using the 392 & TR6060 out of a 2016 Challenger I opted for the GPS Speedometer Module and the GPS Booster Antenna. Cost just over $3k CDN from Hot Nights Hot Rods in Caledon.

- My order from Holley back in December consisted of : Premium Mid Engine Mount, Mid Sump VVT Oil Pan, Drive by Wire Pedal, Frostbite 4 Core Rad, VVT&SVR Wire Harness, 350 LPH EFI Fuel Tank Module all came within two weeks. I waited 4 months due to back order for the Terminator X Max Part# 550-1425 and the Frostbite Fan/Shroud Package. This all came to over $10k CDN plus the tax at the border.

- TTI 1-3/4 Headers Part# TTI61RSA-RC25 ordered by and shipped to Nation Moparts in Beaverton. $1919 CDN all in

- Wilwood Master Brake Cylinder & proportional valves. Brake booster, hydraulic clutch pedal with billet reservoir. $2300 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

-American Autowire Complete Wiring Harness. $1900 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

- USCT Trans Tunnel Perimeter Frame, TR6060 Trans Mount, Subframe Connectors and Torque Boxes. $2500 CDN plus tax at the border.

- 2020 Challenger Complete Center Console with manual shift boot. $400 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper Motor. $450 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper linkage pivot arm and clips. $178 CDN from National Moparts

- AMD drivers side floor pan $475 CDN


I have been putting in 70 hour work weeks to pay for this stuff. I’m not a rich person, just willing to put in the OT hours as a tool and die maker. Been buying the parts as the money is coming in. No debt taken on.
I do need the following parts to complete this swap and upgrade.

-Direct mount gear shifter conversion
(Looking for suggestions)

-Classic Auto Air complete A/C system

-Fat Mat sound control (Dynamat substitute)

-Ralley dash pads (probably pick them up at the Mopar Nationals in Carlisle this summer), have dash skeleton and top pad already.

- Pistol Grip Shifter Conversion (probably get from Brewers or Mr Norms)

- Drive shaft (custom made)

- New Brake and Fuel lines
(Is 1/2 inch fuel line too much for stock 392?)

- Custom Stainless Steel exhaust, going with 2.5 inch and reusing set of awesome Flowmaster mufflers and exhaust tips from previous setup. (Should I go X pipe or H pipe? Or just go straight back like I had previously with the old 383?)

- Cold Air intake

- Battery relocation kit and extra positive wire.

Have I missed anything or overlooked anything?


Installation Progress:

I am doing all the work myself with help from my father and the use of his shop and lift. As well as help from YouTube and the internet including this forum. I bought a 120v welder off Facebook marketplace to complete the welding portion.

I have the new floor, subframe connectors and torque boxes already welded in place with some touch ups to do. I know some of it looks a bit crappy. I am confident in saying I know they’re strong welds. I did double up in some places. And I did it short bursts to not overheat areas. I will be grinding the excess off. (I have included pics please don’t criticize my welding.)

Next thing is completing the cutting of the floor, fire wall and center support frame to mock up and weld in the trans tunnel perimeter frame.

Then everything else…

I plan on taking some time off work and going at this project full force in the next few months. I’ve set a goal of having it completed and on the road for Moparfest in Newhamburg, Ontario middle of this August.

Lofty goal I know.

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Do you have an IG account? I’m doing a 392 gen III swap into a 70 Coronet. I’m having trouble locating all the electrical harnesses. Would love to see some of your progress. I have most of the parts except for the custom parts such as exhaust and shaft. I have a 8HP70 transmission and Russell Drake from German Sound Engineering.
 
Do you have an IG account? I’m doing a 392 gen III swap into a 70 Coronet. I’m having trouble locating all the electrical harnesses. Would love to see some of your progress. I have most of the parts except for the custom parts such as exhaust and shaft. I have a 8HP70 transmission and Russell Drake from German Sound Engineering.
I do have IG, haven’t been posting anything on it in regards to my project though. I plan on posting pics here as I progress. Cutting the center support and firewall then tacking the trans tunnel in place will be happening this week I hope. Electrical work is probably a few months away.

I’m sure if you ask the right questions on this site you’ll get some answers in regards to sourcing some of your electrical components.

I’ll be looking out for your posts of your project as well.
 
Haven’t updated my 392 swap into a ‘69 coronet progress in a while.

I hope some of this information is somewhat informative for folks looking to swap a 392 Hemi with a TR6060 into their car. I have only included the cost of the parts gathered to help people with making the decision to start this endeavour. It hasn’t been cheap!

I’m up in Ontario, Canada so collecting parts has been expensive and time consuming due to the fact almost everything is coming up from the states. I have a US postal address account in Lewiston/Niagara Falls, New York. I have had a lot of stuff sent to which has saved me paying customs and brokerage fees. But not the tax at Canadian border which is extra.

It all started when I found a 392 Hemi paired with TR6060 out of a wrecked 2016 Challenger with 16,000 Kms (10,000 Miles) on Facebook marketplace. Guy wanted $16k, I offered $13k CDN in person and he took it.

I have since started acquiring the following:

- QA1 Front Coil Over Suspension Conversion with Tubular K Frame, Gen 3 motor mounts and Wilwood Disc Brakes. Just under $9k CDN with tax at border

- I ordered the MTX-68D-CHG Dakota Digital Ralley gauge cluster 6 months ago and it came in last week. I’m quite impressed with it. Due to using the 392 & TR6060 out of a 2016 Challenger I opted for the GPS Speedometer Module and the GPS Booster Antenna. Cost just over $3k CDN from Hot Nights Hot Rods in Caledon.

- My order from Holley back in December consisted of : Premium Mid Engine Mount, Mid Sump VVT Oil Pan, Drive by Wire Pedal, Frostbite 4 Core Rad, VVT&SVR Wire Harness, 350 LPH EFI Fuel Tank Module all came within two weeks. I waited 4 months due to back order for the Terminator X Max Part# 550-1425 and the Frostbite Fan/Shroud Package. This all came to over $10k CDN plus the tax at the border.

- TTI 1-3/4 Headers Part# TTI61RSA-RC25 ordered by and shipped to Nation Moparts in Beaverton. $1919 CDN all in

- Wilwood Master Brake Cylinder & proportional valves. Brake booster, hydraulic clutch pedal with billet reservoir. $2300 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

-American Autowire Complete Wiring Harness. $1900 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

- USCT Trans Tunnel Perimeter Frame, TR6060 Trans Mount, Subframe Connectors and Torque Boxes. $2500 CDN plus tax at the border.

- 2020 Challenger Complete Center Console with manual shift boot. $400 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper Motor. $450 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper linkage pivot arm and clips. $178 CDN from National Moparts

- AMD drivers side floor pan $475 CDN


I have been putting in 70 hour work weeks to pay for this stuff. I’m not a rich person, just willing to put in the OT hours as a tool and die maker. Been buying the parts as the money is coming in. No debt taken on.
I do need the following parts to complete this swap and upgrade.

-Direct mount gear shifter conversion
(Looking for suggestions)

-Classic Auto Air complete A/C system

-Fat Mat sound control (Dynamat substitute)

-Ralley dash pads (probably pick them up at the Mopar Nationals in Carlisle this summer), have dash skeleton and top pad already.

- Pistol Grip Shifter Conversion (probably get from Brewers or Mr Norms)

- Drive shaft (custom made)

- New Brake and Fuel lines
(Is 1/2 inch fuel line too much for stock 392?)

- Custom Stainless Steel exhaust, going with 2.5 inch and reusing set of awesome Flowmaster mufflers and exhaust tips from previous setup. (Should I go X pipe or H pipe? Or just go straight back like I had previously with the old 383?)

- Cold Air intake

- Battery relocation kit and extra positive wire.

Have I missed anything or overlooked anything?


Installation Progress:

I am doing all the work myself with help from my father and the use of his shop and lift. As well as help from YouTube and the internet including this forum. I bought a 120v welder off Facebook marketplace to complete the welding portion.

I have the new floor, subframe connectors and torque boxes already welded in place with some touch ups to do. I know some of it looks a bit crappy. I am confident in saying I know they’re strong welds. I did double up in some places. And I did it short bursts to not overheat areas. I will be grinding the excess off. (I have included pics please don’t criticize my welding.)

Next thing is completing the cutting of the floor, fire wall and center support frame to mock up and weld in the trans tunnel perimeter frame.

Then everything else…

I plan on taking some time off work and going at this project full force in the next few months. I’ve set a goal of having it completed and on the road for Moparfest in Newhamburg, Ontario middle of this August.

Lofty goal I know.

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Do you have an IG account? I’m doing a 392 gen III swap into a 70 Coronet. I’m having trouble locating all the electrical harnesses. Would love to see some of your progress. I have most of the parts except for the custom parts such as exhaust and shaft. I have a 8HP70 transmission and Russell from
I do have IG, haven’t been posting anything on it in regards to my project though. I plan on posting pics here as I progress. Cutting the center support and firewall then tacking the trans tunnel in place will be happening this week I hope. Electrical work is probably a few months away.

I’m sure if you ask the right questions on this site you’ll get some answers in regards to sourcing some of your electrical components.

I’ll be looking out for your posts of your project as well.
Yeah these Hemi swap projects aren’t anything like restoring a mopar back to stock. This has taken lots of research and money. I probably won’t be doing another swap unless I get a deal on another 392.
I’ll be posting some pics as soon as I drop the engine.
 
Haven’t updated my 392 swap into a ‘69 coronet progress in a while.

I hope some of this information is somewhat informative for folks looking to swap a 392 Hemi with a TR6060 into their car. I have only included the cost of the parts gathered to help people with making the decision to start this endeavour. It hasn’t been cheap!

I’m up in Ontario, Canada so collecting parts has been expensive and time consuming due to the fact almost everything is coming up from the states. I have a US postal address account in Lewiston/Niagara Falls, New York. I have had a lot of stuff sent to which has saved me paying customs and brokerage fees. But not the tax at Canadian border which is extra.

It all started when I found a 392 Hemi paired with TR6060 out of a wrecked 2016 Challenger with 16,000 Kms (10,000 Miles) on Facebook marketplace. Guy wanted $16k, I offered $13k CDN in person and he took it.

I have since started acquiring the following:

- QA1 Front Coil Over Suspension Conversion with Tubular K Frame, Gen 3 motor mounts and Wilwood Disc Brakes. Just under $9k CDN with tax at border

- I ordered the MTX-68D-CHG Dakota Digital Ralley gauge cluster 6 months ago and it came in last week. I’m quite impressed with it. Due to using the 392 & TR6060 out of a 2016 Challenger I opted for the GPS Speedometer Module and the GPS Booster Antenna. Cost just over $3k CDN from Hot Nights Hot Rods in Caledon.

- My order from Holley back in December consisted of : Premium Mid Engine Mount, Mid Sump VVT Oil Pan, Drive by Wire Pedal, Frostbite 4 Core Rad, VVT&SVR Wire Harness, 350 LPH EFI Fuel Tank Module all came within two weeks. I waited 4 months due to back order for the Terminator X Max Part# 550-1425 and the Frostbite Fan/Shroud Package. This all came to over $10k CDN plus the tax at the border.

- TTI 1-3/4 Headers Part# TTI61RSA-RC25 ordered by and shipped to Nation Moparts in Beaverton. $1919 CDN all in

- Wilwood Master Brake Cylinder & proportional valves. Brake booster, hydraulic clutch pedal with billet reservoir. $2300 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

-American Autowire Complete Wiring Harness. $1900 CDN Ordered through Hot Nights

- USCT Trans Tunnel Perimeter Frame, TR6060 Trans Mount, Subframe Connectors and Torque Boxes. $2500 CDN plus tax at the border.

- 2020 Challenger Complete Center Console with manual shift boot. $400 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper Motor. $450 CDN from Facebook marketplace

-3 Speed Wiper linkage pivot arm and clips. $178 CDN from National Moparts

- AMD drivers side floor pan $475 CDN


I have been putting in 70 hour work weeks to pay for this stuff. I’m not a rich person, just willing to put in the OT hours as a tool and die maker. Been buying the parts as the money is coming in. No debt taken on.
I do need the following parts to complete this swap and upgrade.

-Direct mount gear shifter conversion
(Looking for suggestions)

-Classic Auto Air complete A/C system

-Fat Mat sound control (Dynamat substitute)

-Ralley dash pads (probably pick them up at the Mopar Nationals in Carlisle this summer), have dash skeleton and top pad already.

- Pistol Grip Shifter Conversion (probably get from Brewers or Mr Norms)

- Drive shaft (custom made)

- New Brake and Fuel lines
(Is 1/2 inch fuel line too much for stock 392?)

- Custom Stainless Steel exhaust, going with 2.5 inch and reusing set of awesome Flowmaster mufflers and exhaust tips from previous setup. (Should I go X pipe or H pipe? Or just go straight back like I had previously with the old 383?)

- Cold Air intake

- Battery relocation kit and extra positive wire.

Have I missed anything or overlooked anything?


Installation Progress:

I am doing all the work myself with help from my father and the use of his shop and lift. As well as help from YouTube and the internet including this forum. I bought a 120v welder off Facebook marketplace to complete the welding portion.

I have the new floor, subframe connectors and torque boxes already welded in place with some touch ups to do. I know some of it looks a bit crappy. I am confident in saying I know they’re strong welds. I did double up in some places. And I did it short bursts to not overheat areas. I will be grinding the excess off. (I have included pics please don’t criticize my welding.)

Next thing is completing the cutting of the floor, fire wall and center support frame to mock up and weld in the trans tunnel perimeter frame.

Then everything else…

I plan on taking some time off work and going at this project full force in the next few months. I’ve set a goal of having it completed and on the road for Moparfest in Newhamburg, Ontario middle of this August.

Lofty goal I know.

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Mine is a '72, but USCT recommended the front frame connectors as well for my 392 swap. I'm using the RMS front end. Supposedly it eliminates some vibration issues. They mount just in front of the front torque boxes. You may want to look into those.
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Mine is a '72, but USCT recommended the front frame connectors as well for my 392 swap. I'm using the RMS front end. Supposedly it eliminates some vibration issues. They mount just in front of the front torque boxes. You may want to look into those.
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Thanks for the heads up. I looked on the USCT website and there isn’t a set of front frame connectors listed for a 68-70. I am now considering putting in the Core Support Stiffener though.

I will be looking into possibly fabricating some more supports and gussets in the front end area when the engine and trans are mocked into place.
 
Due to multiple setbacks and life getting in the way the build has been coming along at a slower pace than planned.

The focus has been mostly on the engine.

Start with removing the factory accessory mount and oil pan.

Installed the Holley accessory mount kit with the ATI VVT Super Damper, Holley oil pan, tube and dip stick. One set back was with the power steering pump in the mid mount kit missing threads so I was unable to mount it. With a call to Holley customer support I was able exchange it for another one. Which I couldn’t pick up from the US post box for a few weeks. Had to wait quite a bit for the Holley Lower Structure Support as it was out of stock. I was surprised to find out that it is not a complete dust shield. After installing it there is still a gap at the bottom. I made up a template with cardboard so I can make one to cover the gap from a sheet of aluminum.

Installed the Holley in tank EFI system in the fuel tank.

Assembled a lot of the QA1 suspension components and the Wilwood disk brakes. Found out that the QA1 kit does not come with spindle nuts. Had to order a set from Amazon.

I painted the QA1 K frame blue. Installed the QA1 Gen 3 engine mounts and mounted the engine. Have it sitting on a skid I made up with wheels so I can move it easily to mock up the engine and trans in the car to weld the USCT TR6060 trans mounts into place and confirm fitment with Trans Perimeter Tunnel.

Also ordered up the TTI X Pipe exhaust system with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. I am impressed with what I see after unboxing it. The sales person was awesome to deal with over the phone as well. Confirming fitment with all the components I am working with.

Ordered up the Classic Auto Air system. Also very good to deal with over the phone with customizing my order for use with a Gen 3 Hemi.

I can confirm the TTI headers part # TTI61RSA-RC25 fit using the QA1 engine mounts.

Another thing to note. With the ATI VVT Super Damper hub fully installed onto crankshaft the crank bolt washer does not seat up against the end of crank shaft. I have pictures to show how it looks after using the install tool. And if not using a key or dowel for TDC in the crank shaft the key way in the hub must be sealed with RTV silicone. Just in case anyone was wondering. I could not find much about the install on any YouTube videos or much when searching the internet. ATI install instructions aren’t very detailed for Hemi’s.

I hope some of this info helps others that are wondering about certain fitment of component combinations.

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I can attest to not progressing as fast as you hoped. Life happens. We humans plan, God laughs.
 
I can attest to not progressing as fast as you hoped. Life happens. We humans plan, God laughs.
Instead of stressing, I’m just going with the flow now. My used FB marketplace engine hoist lifting cylinder blew out on me the other day. It’s always something…
 
I had originally installed a 45deg oil filter adapter as well, but once I got everything into the car, the steering rack was very close. It ended up I didn't even need the adapter despite all the recommendations contrary. I've got way more room to get it out now. I had the RMS front end, so the QA1 might be different.
 
I had originally installed a 45deg oil filter adapter as well, but once I got everything into the car, the steering rack was very close. It ended up I didn't even need the adapter despite all the recommendations contrary. I've got way more room to get it out now. I had the RMS front end, so the QA1 might be different.
Test fitment of the engine and trans has been an eye opener for me the last few days. So I wouldn’t be surprised if the 45 deg is an issue. I will cross that bridge when I get there though. Thanks for the input. As always I appreciate all the feedback from everyone that has or is doing the swap.
 
Some pictures of clearance issues encountered so far with the test fitment.

-SRV module hits the wiper motor bulge. Will be cutting out a section and fabricating a piece to help clear it.

-Trans mount cross member needs more to be cut out to facilitate the clearance for TR6060 USCT mounts. A lot more than I originally expected.

-The USCT trans perimeter tunnel top brace is in the way of the direct mount shifter conversion I had planned on using.

-I need to notch out a section of the tunnel and floor for the hydraulic clutch line to have room for clearance.

There will be more issues I’ll run into I’m sure. Even after all the research, checking forums, talking to suppliers and tech support I’m finding new unexpected issues. It’s all apart of the process though which is understandable.

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Some pictures of clearance issues encountered so far with the test fitment.

-SRV module hits the wiper motor bulge. Will be cutting out a section and fabricating a piece to help clear it.

-Trans mount cross member needs more to be cut out to facilitate the clearance for TR6060 USCT mounts. A lot more than I originally expected.

-The USCT trans perimeter tunnel top brace is in the way of the direct mount shifter conversion I had planned on using.

-I need to notch out a section of the tunnel and floor for the hydraulic clutch line to have room for clearance.

There will be more issues I’ll run into I’m sure. Even after all the research, checking forums, talking to suppliers and tech support I’m finding new unexpected issues. It’s all apart of the process though which is understandable.

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Yeah my SRV module didn't touch, but it might as well have it was so close. I unceremoniously used a hammer and some touch up spray paint to make a little clearance. Sounds like you're doing it the right way.
 
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