Cutting out Trunk Floor - Air or Electric tools?

[theGreenOrange]

Hello,

I'm going to be cutting the trunk floor out of my 72 Sattelite and will need to buy some tools. What would you guys suggest? I expect to be doing a little more metal cutting around the trunk rail and lower quarters mostly. Nothing as major as the trunk but some of it could be harder to access. I've not done this type of work before!

I don't have an air compressor but have been wanting one anyway. Eastwood has an air cutting wheel, reciprocating saw and shears for $99. Do you guys think it is worth getting this and an air compressor or would I do just as well with an electric cutting wheel for cheap and some electric shears?

Check out my restore thread for pictures of the trunk if you like. Also a bunch more pictures on the welcome thread.

 

[sleepar]

Saws all that plugs in for the most bang for buck and an angle grinder and a 110 wire welder will do everything and get a ex heavy extension cord... I have done everything with a oxy acetylene torch. But the saws all beats it. Same as air .. find a pawn shop and you're really ahead of it.

 

[theGreenOrange]

Saws all that plugs in for the most bang for buck and an angle grinder and a 110 wire welder will do everything and get a ex heavy extension cord... I have done everything with a oxy acetylene torch. But the saws all beats it. Same as air .. find a pawn shop and you're really ahead of it.

Thanks for the info on cutting. I was thinking of going cheap on the welding machine... saw this one at Eastwood http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-90-amp-flux-core-welder.html
for $160. I don't think I will use it too much besides this project and I figured low amps isn't a bad thing on sheet metal. What do you guys think?

 

[5.7 hemi]

I personally would stay away from flux core mig welders. For a few more bucks you can get a decent gas mig welder.

 

[sleepar]

I got a cheap Chicago electric 110 it's got 2 settings and wire speed does nicely... all you really do is tack a car together I used the high setting and put in sub frame connectors to get a full penetration... I got a case of 2 lb spools because the 1 lb ones go so fast you spend 1/2 the time changeing them. And use anti spatter on the tip to keep it free of spatter... you can use a chemical garden sprayer and sanding sponges and a painters puty knife to clean and rince all th crud off things for a cheap pressure washer do in the hard to get places... there's a low buck way for everything. I spray bomb with vht engine enamel under the hood and rustolium appliance enamel on the floors both sides with foam brushes

 

[theGreenOrange]

I'm kind of worried about hitting a bunch of stuff under the trunk floor with the saws-all. What do you guys think about using a nibbler? The videos on you-tube make it look pretty good but don't know what kind of supports are under the trunk floor that might get in the way too much. I can't really see because the gas tank is still on.

I think I may go ahead and get a welder with shielding gas.

 

[sleepar]

I had a bottle mig and flux core the bottle was always in the way where the flux goes every where beside me. Grind all the welds anay way how would you know? I clean everything. Stick would be more grinding but if your only doing one car for you're self and not a pro for a living is the bottle worth really worth it. Gas is better true

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You can get a spot weld cutter and air it all appart... I drill this holes to follow with the saw all... depends whAt you are comfortable with and practice on some junk... I never had air tools so I can't really compare...

 

[theGreenOrange]

Sleepar you are making lots of sense. I think I will go with the saws-all and drill holes to mark where to stop.

I'm not sure where you stand on the flux welder though. I would like to avoid the hassle of gas if possible. But not stick I think. Do you think that crappy Eastwood welder would be good enough?

 

[sleepar]

I got mine from harbour freight.... but I've been welding on off since the late '80s practice practice and on the scrap metal you cut out.. and upside down with out looking to gain a feel burn a few spools and it will click.. get comfortable being burned by at least one spark that you can't reach... worst comes to worse you will be grinding and starting over till it comes... be clean don't weld I've paint rust grease that helps
You can't weld along more then an inch at most it's all tack move 180° tack 180° tack tack so you don't warp anay thing remove everything flammable an tape all the glass inside and out if your anywhere neer it I covered my dash top and bottom with card board sand tape then got the cardboard damp with a spray bottle.... the prep is 90% of it Making art out of the scraps 10

 

[theGreenOrange]

Ok, I just found this Chicago Electric flux welder for $111 on Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-68887-8494.html

I think I'm going to just get that and practice with it and see how it goes. Maybe it will be good enough to use on the car.

 

[sleepar]

Every 6 inches drill a hole and bolt it in over a spot weld and when you get it welded all around pull the bolts and plug them with weld so it can't move and cut the floor pan big at first bolt it down and scribe then cut it down around the edges once you're happy with the fitment you can weld tabs in places to hold it where there is no supporters then grind them out later...

 

[sleepar]

In '90 that machine was the bomb no sticks to change and 110 current.... it will make better welder out of you because it's basically a stick that's a mile long with the flux in than out just not having to change rods and its $100 that's an hour at a shop just on the low setting you can do most everything the wire speed controls is all you adjust buy a case of Lincoln wire .030 at home depot. 'Throw the one it comes with away watch the puddle and walk it around like a 7018 get a hood that automatically tints and you will be fine

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Don't buy the longest pyrana saws all blades... get the bi-metal ones shortest they have and you will need a pack of 10 you will brake some put some electrical tape around the tip of it for a feeler and to keep it from jumping out of a hole and save the dull blades for places were you want less bite.

 

[flypaper]

if you are just cutting out just a trunk floor
don't use a sawzall,the potential damage you could cause
on parts you want to save isn't worth it.
the best low buck way with electric is
drill all the spot welds out wit a spot weld cutter and
get yourself a 4 inch electric cut off tool at harbor
with a pack of 4 inch wheels.
it will go slower then air, but it will do the job
with the precision you won't get with a sawzall.
if you want to step up a little,you can also
get a electric grinder and go for a little larger wheel.
but the 4 inch wheel will get you into tighter spaces then
a larger wheel.
that and a good chisel and hammer is all you need.

 

[sleepar]

I agree a 4" grinder cut off wheel .... I'm just really good with the sawzall from years of historical work on houses and boats and prefer it over the grinder because of the dust and my wrists can't handle it long. No sence in buying another tool because you need the grinder welding... my bad

 

[theGreenOrange]

Thanks so much for all the advice guys, I feel like I will be able to make this happen!

 

[Donny]

Send your car out to be professionally Media Blasted before you undertake anything like you ask us an 'opinion' on. Word of advice, never ask for an 'opinion' because you can get anything and everything and it will answer your query, be specific, ask educated questions, not everyone on the Internet knows what they're talking about, in fact, many times following someone's advice online leads you to misery. Get the car blasted before doing anything, and, if you don't have the tools to do the stated task of removing the floor, you best get some, and get some experience.

 

[theGreenOrange]

While I would love to get my car blasted, it's just not going to happen right now. Thanks for the brake check but I'll be fine repairing the obvious rust and crossing my fingers that the car doesn't snap in half. I'm pretty pleased with the opinions these guys took the time to offer. It's going to be a cruiser, not a drag racer or a show car and that's the context for the type of advice I am looking for, not "Do a frame off restoration".

 

[nomax]

The 3 trunk floors I've done,
I used exactly what fly posted,
and a good chisel and hammer is going to be your best friend here.

if you are just cutting out just a trunk floor
don't use a sawzall,the potential damage you could cause
on parts you want to save isn't worth it.
the best low buck way with electric is
drill all the spot welds out wit a spot weld cutter and
get yourself a 4 inch electric cut off tool at harbor
with a pack of 4 inch wheels.
it will go slower then air, but it will do the job
with the precision you won't get with a sawzall.
if you want to step up a little,you can also
get a electric grinder and go for a little larger wheel.
but the 4 inch wheel will get you into tighter spaces then
a larger wheel.
that and a good chisel and hammer is all you need.

 

[Donny]

Wasn't really a Brake Check, but, that's pretty cool thought though. I only say this because I've seen perhaps 30 or so guys and their cars and the very same process you're starting to undertake, it will be a never-ending process and you're going to spend a LOT of time, money and such, not to mention sandpaper discs, blades, etc and never ever know what your car is really like. And, you mentioned you don't need or want a show car, so, no need to do it right. I only say this because you asked, and, I've been there and done/did that, and won't do some things ever again the way I did it before, just trying to steer you right.

 

[theGreenOrange]

I do appreciate the thought. It's just that having the car blasted is a little beyond what I can take on right now. 2nd baby on the way in 8 weeks for one thing. It is in my plans at some point, but the trunk rail had a leak and the carpet must have been wet for a long time. The rest of the car is pretty minor rust from what I can tell but like you hinted, you probably never know unless you blast.