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Drilling an aftermarket hipo axle flange for access to the axle retainer nuts.....using a 'unibit'??

Cranky

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Lost my machine shop radial arm drill press for doing this but a buddy is saying he can do them himself with a 'unibit'.....and I laughed. Is this plausible? I've use unibits before but they sure don't look plausible to me to do that kind of work.
 
I doubt it. Those axles are hard as heck.
The axle shafts are usually case hardened but the flanges are not but are still not exactly soft. They are made with some good steel but don't know what kind....4140 maybe? I pilot drilled them where the holes should be and it wasn't that hard to do but wasn't exactly easy either and had to go slowly.
 
The bigger problem with a unibit is the stepped design...and the 'steps' aren't very thick so you'll end up with a hole that's one diameter on one side, and a different diameter on the other. They don't last long on the hardened stuff either unless you spend the big bucks(have you seen the prices on standard unibits lately? Ouch!)
Axle flanges aren't thin (and yeah they're hard too) so I wouldn't even consider one for that.
Use the proper sized drill (cobalt maybe? Again$$) and good lube, go slow like you would with stainless...since it's just for socket access to the nuts I wouldn't worry too much about perfection like you might if it was for a new bolt pattern.
 
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I would want the holes indexed correctly! They need to be on an accurate bolt circle. No Hand Job!
 
I would want the holes indexed correctly! They need to be on an accurate bolt circle. No Hand Job!
Of course, but he's talking just for axle retainer nut access. As long as the hole lines up to get a socket on the nuts, that's all that matters....no bolt circle to worry about.
I'd drill them a few increments bigger too. Need to get a 9/16" through there? I'm going to a 5/8" or 11/16" hole.
 
The bigger problem with a unibit is the stepped design...and the 'steps' aren't very thick so you'll end up with a hole that's one diameter on one side, and a different diameter on the other. They don't last long on the hardened stuff either unless you spend the big bucks(have you seen the prices on standard unibits lately? Ouch!)
Axle flanges aren't thin (and yeah they're hard too) so I wouldn't even consider one for that.
Use the proper sized drill (cobalt maybe? Again$$) and good lube, go slow like you would with stainless...since it's just for socket access to the nuts I wouldn't worry too much about perfection like you might if it was for a new bolt pattern.
Unibits are available for thick materials as well like 1/4 cutting depth for each step
 
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Cranky , if he has a uni bit that will drill that flange I would really like to have the brand info on it.
:luvplace:
 
I would want the holes indexed correctly! They need to be on an accurate bolt circle. No Hand Job!
It's just a hole for a socket to go through to remove the flange nuts.
 
Unibits are available for thick materials as well like 1/4 cutting diameter for each step
Oh, I've got one that has 3/8" steps but it only drills 1/2" holes max...if you have a 3/8" stepper that can drill to 5/8" or bigger post a link I want one! Still going to cost a bit more than a regular drill I'd imagine...
 
The axle shafts are usually case hardened but the flanges are not but are still not exactly soft. They are made with some good steel but don't know what kind....4140 maybe? I pilot drilled them where the holes should be and it wasn't that hard to do but wasn't exactly easy either and had to go slowly.
Since you pilot drilled it's probably easier to drill them out in stages using drills in increasing sizes. Might take more time but will result in less objectionable language:D
 
If you have the cash :lol: these are available in a few different max diameters
 
Of course, but he's talking just for axle retainer nut access. As long as the hole lines up to get a socket on the nuts, that's all that matters....no bolt circle to worry about.
I'd drill them a few increments bigger too. Need to get a 9/16" through there? I'm going to a 5/8" or 11/16" hole.
Measure the O.D. of your smallest 9/16ths" socket....my smallest one is .748" and it's a 1/4" drive. All the others I have are bigger than the one that's .748" with the next ones being .773"
Since you pilot drilled it's probably easier to drill them out in stages using drills in increasing sizes. Might take more time but will result in less objectionable language:D
Yeah but man, it took some doing to get a decent sized center drill to get there....don't care to drill them out by hand. I'm going to call a couple of local machine shops to see if anyone has a radial arm drill press that's willing to do it or let me do them. Thought about setting up my milling machine but getting that thing set up to do it isn't going to be worth the hassle plus the setup won't be nearly as good and ridged as using an RDP
Uni-bits are to drill bits what Cragar's are to real mag wheels.

Do you want a hole, or do you want a big sloppy oval???? :p
At this point, don't care what this guy wants or gets lol
 
Measure the O.D. of your smallest 9/16ths" socket....my smallest one is .748" and it's a 1/4" drive. All the others I have are bigger than the one that's .748" with the next ones being .773"
Oh yes, for sure....sometimes my fingers work quicker than my brain lol
Yeah but man, it took some doing to get a decent sized center drill to get there....don't care to drill them out by hand. I'm going to call a couple of local machine shops to see if anyone has a radial arm drill press that's willing to do it or let me do them. Thought about setting up my milling machine but getting that thing set up to do it isn't going to be worth the hassle plus the setup won't be nearly as good and ridged as using an RDP

At this point, don't care what this guy wants or gets lol
That's a great idea. Of course you will charge accordingly I hope!
 
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