Electronic distributor and voltage regulators

[Earl H.]

I have a 1967 Dodge Coronet R/T, 440 Magnum, that I converted to electronic ignition last spring. I purchased the distributor, coil, ignition control module, and ballast resistor as a kit through Summit Racing. The car ran great for most of the year, in the fall I blew a voltage regulator. So far this year I've gone through 2 more black box regulators. I've read a bunch of forums and there is no shortage of thoughts on this subject. I've read with an electronic distributor the black box regulator is fine. I've also read that an electronic distributor needs an updated electronic regulator. I've read it's possibly a poor ground. I've been told it could be a short or bare wire grounding out. Also I've heard the electric choke on the carb shouldn't be connected to the regulator but to some other keyed source of power. I'm still chasing wires, anyone have any thoughts on the subject? Much appreciated.

 

[Black_Sheep]

I would seek out a NOS or NORS (new old replacement stock) replacement, electrical components made nowadays are really hit or miss…

 

[Budnicks]

I'd double check the wiring

& yes
it's common to need to sand a bit of the fire wall,
to bear metal, back of the controller even too, it has poor resistance
(use a small dab of dielectric grease on it too, don't go crazy)
do not have the bolts both go in/on a painted surface, makes bad/poor connections
it'd seeking a ground, after it corrodes or oxidizes a bit over time
probably seem fine at 1st, but it will fail
sand lil' tinny spot behind the mounting area,
around the bolt hole of one of the mounting bolts
so it gets a good surface to ground
some guys also add a 'ground wire' from the cast iron block
or a cast iron head
up to to the control module one of the bolts, so it has a recognized ground
make sure the engine has a good/clean surface, a good ground strap to body/chassis also

the wire you are using may be corroded in the firewall bulkhead connections
carefully take that section/plug off (should be a dark blue wire traced back)
clean it thoroughly, with like a lil' brush, some fine sand paper etc.
& some electrical contact cleaner, that doesn't leave any residue
apply a lil' dab of dielectric grease when reinstalling to, don't go overboard

is it a 5 pin controller ?
with a dual ballast resister

the 5 pins controllers supposedly require a 'dual ballast' .5 ohm/1.5 ohm, like 1973 & later used
hooked up properly
& an electronic voltage regulator like 1973 & later used
the coil is somewhat specific to each also,
needs to be the proper ohm resistance rated, some coils won't last long either
even brand new "junk"

Here's another 5 pin controller schematic, no colors designation

a 4 pin type controller ?
w/single ballast resister

I found the Orange MP controller boxes, unless they were from like 30+ years ago are junk,
buy the Chrome MP controller (it's now Direct Connection again) & get the right coil for it lower ohm resistance
you can ask the guy at Summit Racing tech dept. he'd probably know which is which

or find a NOS controller from the 80's or early 90's from someone
there's a guy on here that has & sells them IIRC,
his screen name, eludes me at the moment, someone will know it

these next 2 probably doesn't apply to a Summit Brand deal
this is an old list of what controller, what resister to use with what box, for what useage
out of the Mopar Direct Connection book for years ago
sort for posterity someone need to see what was Chrysler doing
recommendation in the memos/performance bible

Also
check the 'air gap' at the pickup 'between the reluctor wheel & the pick up'
in the distributor,
needs to be 0.008" to 0.0010" air gap
use a brass/bronze non magnetic 'feeler Guage' unplug the distributor
remember to plug it back in again after too

There's also a company FBO
https://www.4secondflat.com/ ignition
(Mancini Racing Sells them too)
much better control units HRR688 & has a rev limiter built in,
not that you need it
it uses a specific low ohm resistance coil too (it's plug & play with the wires you have now)
has controllers where you don't need to use a ballast resister
or you have to bypass yours, a wire to jump it/the ballast resister, get use the full 12 volts,
not 9 vlts or less like most OE stuff with a ballast resister

good luck