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Fresh rebuild initial oil change

PolaraFury

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Location
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Hello,

Just did a 500 stroker with hydraulic roller lifters, cam, and rockers.

How long should I run the first oil before I change it?

35 years ago we would run it 500 miles and change the oil but, I’m sure there have been some advances in science that say otherwise. (Always trust the science)

Thank you
 
You will get a bunch of different answers on that question but I will say what the machine shop told me for a 383HP they just did the work on. This is a basic stock 330 hp 464 lift no roller motor.
Initial break in 30 minutes:
2 cans Comp Cams or Equal break in additive with zinc.
1 qt synthetic 30 weight oil.
Fill the rest with straight 30 weight.
First 1000 miles:
I can break in additive
15w-40 Mobil 1 synthetic ( which I see they don't make anymore ) or 15w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic.
He says the Mobil 1 synthetic has the most zinc in their oil.
After that:
15w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic.
Also changing the filter after each of the above.
I live in North Florida and recommendations of different weight oils depend on where you are located temperature wise.
 
at my buddies shop for a engine rebuild he tells the customers to drive the car for 4-5 heat cycles with regular oil and a bottle of Zinc for both hydraulic and roller cams. Change the oil and he tells them to bring the old oil filter in so he can cut it open to see if there's any trash in it.
 
My machinist says no synthetic oil for the first two oil changes. First oil is joe gobs break in oil and change it at 500 miles. Then add joe Gibbs conventional oil and the second oil change at 2500 miles. Then go for the synthetic, or whatever you like.

The racing engines are a different story. But the rings and bore finish are specific to what you are doing there.
 
500 miles use Brad Penn oil with built in zinc. Avoid at all cost Zinc additives. 1. They settle out instantly and never have the right surfactant to keep in suspension. A well formulated out will have a balance of molybdenum, zinc and phosphate's. It used to be Shell had this hands down with adequate heavy metals i believe that has changed.
 
500 miles use Brad Penn oil with built in zinc. Avoid at all cost Zinc additives. 1. They settle out instantly and never have the right surfactant to keep in suspension. A well formulated out will have a balance of molybdenum, zinc and phosphate's. It used to be Shell had this hands down with adequate heavy metals i believe that has changed.

^^This^^

(Used to be Kendall. It's still green in color. Name is Penn Grade now)
 
You will get a bunch of different answers on that question but I will say what the machine shop told me for a 383HP they just did the work on. This is a basic stock 330 hp 464 lift no roller motor.
Initial break in 30 minutes:
2 cans Comp Cams or Equal break in additive with zinc.
1 qt synthetic 30 weight oil.
Fill the rest with straight 30 weight.
First 1000 miles:
I can break in additive
15w-40 Mobil 1 synthetic ( which I see they don't make anymore ) or 15w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic.
He says the Mobil 1 synthetic has the most zinc in their oil.
After that:
15w-50 Mobil 1 synthetic.
Also changing the filter after each of the above.
I live in North Florida and recommendations of different weight oils depend on where you are located temperature wise.
Zinc is a key for these motors.
 
Hello,

Just did a 500 stroker with hydraulic roller lifters, cam, and rockers.

How long should I run the first oil before I change it?

35 years ago we would run it 500 miles and change the oil but, I’m sure there have been some advances in science that say otherwise. (Always trust the science)

Thank you
So many things depend bottom line it works and is kick ***.
 
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