Front suspension rebuild questions

[Moparguy1]

I am getting ready to order a bunch of front suspension parts to rebuild my suspension on my 66 Coronet. It has been sitting without an engine in it for over 20 years. I plan on doing a non-power disk brake conversion, replacing upper and lower control arms, getting the Poly performance super front end kit and adjustable strut rods from PST. Am I missing anything that I should get and should I replace the torsion bars or are the factory ones good enough? The car was a factory 361 big block and is going to have a 440 in it. I will be driving it very little locally and taking it to the track every now and then. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Kern Dog]

These cars can be built for almost any driving you want to do.
What do you want to do with it? Drag race? Road race? Spirited street driving with improved handling ?
I like to spend money where it matters. I'm a road race guy. Drag racing does not interest me. I love to speed up, slow down, turn corners and slide around them too. My car is set up for that.
With that said, I have stock based upper and lower control arms, but they are not completely stock. The uppers have Moog offset bushings. The lowers have stiffener plates welded on them. I do not have urethane bushings in either. They transmit too much vibration without much gain in handling. I do have urethane bushings in my stock strut rods.
I run 1.15 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks and a 1.25 front sway bar. These would be a poor choice for a drag race car but they flat out work for me. I also welded in 3x3 frame connectors and torque boxes. I have Mopar Performance HD leaf springs, Bilstein shocks and a 3/4" sway bar. I run an 8.75 axle with 3.55 gears and a Sure Grip. People will say the torsion bar size I run is too much, that it must ride like a brick. It actually rides quite nice even with a 275-40-18 front tire, a 295-45-18 rear. Short sidewall, stiff suspension and it still rides about the same as my 2015 Challenger R/T !
So....Are you a straight line guy or a road race guy?

 

[Moparguy1]

I am not a road race guy so I guess I would be more of a drag race guy and some local street running. I won't be running a sway bar, I do know that.

 

[Cranky]

Upper and lower bushings, ball joints, inner and outter tie rod ends (with new sleeves if needed) and strut rod bushings pretty well covers it. Also, I don't like to tighten anything up until the car is sitting at ride height and you can do this without the engine in it by adjusting the torsion bars until the car is sitting at least pretty close to what you plan to run it at.

 

[Moparguy1]

Should I install new torsion bars or will the original ones be alright?

 

[Cranky]

Should I install new torsion bars or will the original ones be alright?

How many miles are on them and what is the condition? Rust, nicks, scrapes or bends? Many don't like to reuse old bars but if you know the history of the car and it's had an easy life, I don't have any issues with using old bars that are still in good shape. Other wise, replace them.

 

[Moparguy1]

I don't know how many miles are on them but they look good and they aren't bent that I can tell. The car has not had an engine in it for over 20 years and I don't know if that would help them or hurt then.

 

[Kern Dog]

I am not a road race guy so I guess I would be more of a drag race guy and some local street running. I won't be running a sway bar, I do know that.

Okay I'm out.

 

[pentahead]

Go new...for the price? Why not?

 

[Dennis H]

Put a Firm Feel Stage 2 Box and Bilsteins in too. Can't go wrong.

 

[pentahead]

Its cheaper than the cost of a broken bar! Am I right here????

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Yes your right. New bars. One small nick can snap that sucker at just the wrong time.

 

['73bird]

Its cheaper than the cost of a broken bar! Am I right here????

So get rid of the bars

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

I'd only ask why non-power disc brakes? I had non-power disks once on an A-body and pedal pressure was ridiculous. Put a booster on - much better!!